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Rock Warrior - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
Harrison, Smith, Nordblum (1983)
Rock (Trad)
G
6
single rack to 1.5", extra wires and RPs
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Rock Warrior was put up at a time in the 80s when a huge debate about style and ethic was going on in Red Rock- on the one hand, the Urioste's were busy crafting their well protected and classic routes like Crimson Chrysalis, Sour Mash, and Dream of Wild Turkeys. On the other was a new group of very strong and very traditional focused climbers- led by Richard Harrison. These new upstarts decided to respond to the Uriostes by putting up this fine route, using a few bolts as possible to make the line go- the result was an outstanding, bold, and surprisingly tough to follow route they called Rock Warrior. Pitch 1: Begin about 150' left of PoD at a weakness in the base of the wall below a white slab. Climb up and right, across easy slab to where the climbing begins to get your attention- then traverse straight right (no gear yet) until you can clip a bolt just before going straight up into the varnish. This bolt is roughly 15'-20' left of the belay @ PoD and about 8' above it. From the bolt, go straight up, eventually traversing gently right to the anchor. 150', 5.10b Pitch 2: Head up and left to a bolt, then follow weaknesses to another bolt, evenutally stepping right to an obvious seam. Follow the seam to the top, then step left to anchor. 150', 5.10b Pitch 3: Climb up, following weaknesses to another anchor. 115', 5.10a Pitch 4: Run it out on 5.9 face climbing past a couple bolts to an anchor. 150', 5.9 Pitch 5: Another pitch of runout 5.9, this one with some pretty interesting route finding. Anchor is slightly up and left. 115', 5.9 Pitch 6: Climb up and left, around a bulge (b), then straight up and right to an anchor around a corner at the top of a black slab. 110', 5.10a

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2009-06-21
Views: 1981
Route ID: 44245

8 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars heady

Only the first pitch. My partner did not want to lead the second pitch after following the first, and neither did I, so we bailed. Not sure I followed the "correct" line. I wandered back and forth quite a bit.

Added: 2011-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars specatcular

absolutely outstanding line- thoughtful, inspired climbing the whole way. gear where you need it, but the runs are long and heady. great day out!

Added: 2009-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2007-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars warrior

this route might be the best route on the wall! absolutely fun! not for the newbie trad leader though.

Added: 2008-01-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2006-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Good route. Got off route on the first pitch. Climbed a "variation" between Sandstone samuari and Rock warrior. It went down around 5.10+/5.11- R/X. Belayed at the second bolt on the second pitch...there were 2 good nuts to the left of the bolt. NOT RECOMENDED!

Witnessed by: JJ
Added: 2006-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drkodos on 2004-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Tough for the grade at 10a. Noce and spicy on the first pitch. Thoughtful and stimulating all the way up.

Added: 2004-03-16

... Read all 8 ascent notes