A really great route that is sadly overlooked by folks coming to do the bigger name routes to the left. Start in the large alcove underneath the huge roof in the middle of the wall. Pitch 1: Head up to the right of a tree, aiming for the brown triangle in the rock above- climb the right side of this, then head up and right following a ramp to a stance next to a tree. 5.10a, 190' Pitch 2: Climb up and right, following bolts, then traverse a crack to a bolted station. From here, head straight up, then a little left to another bolted station on a ledge. 5.8, 140' Pitch 3: Follow the crack straight up, passing an intermediate bolt station. 5.9, 180' Pitch 4: Head straight up, following the bolts. A little gear is needed, but not much. Either stop at the first bolt station or continue up another 80' to the last station (you'll need approx 6-8 draws to continue). 5.10a, 160' Note: It is possible to continue up and generally right for another pitch or two to gain the ramp that eventually becomes the exit for Epinephrine, thus gaining the summit. Descent: Rappel down and to the climbers left to a hanging stance just left of the route. This is Fiddler on the Roof. Rap straight down twice more to the lip of the roof. One more 200' rap puts you about 40' above the ground at the base of the triangle on the 1st pitch. Coil one of your ropes and rap to the ground off a bush and a piton.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-05-21
Route ID: 26603
I think this may be my favorite route at RR (so far...). Fun climbing and super well protected. There are a bunch of ways to link pitches together; I did it as handren suggests. Fun rap over the Fiddler roof; less fun in the dark and in 50mph winds.
A great climb! The first 2 pitches are the least fun, but gets exponentially better with height. Takes good gear and has a super fun crux. Would do this climb again without a doubt. Had an epic rappel in high winds and temporarily got a rope stuck in the crack on Dream of Wild Turkeys.