ummm...this route is fun...if you like runout on bad gear. i would even give this route an R/X rating, especially if you do the 5.8 chimney variation, which is definitely X rated. the last pitch is fun and can be well protected if you bring an exta #6 cam. i had to slide mine and suddenly it was runout. also, most of the anchor bolts are still from the first ascent, definitely need to have the traditional lead mentality on this route: the leader doesn't fall. the crux pitch is definitely sandbagged and is a solid mid-11 if not 11+. link the 5.7 pitch before the crux into the crux pitch. i gave thi route a 5-star rating, but only in the categories listed, f the anchors were replaced it would be a lot better, but still R for sure.