A beautiful crack/corner system that starts on the east face of Burlap Buttress just right of a huge roof. This sits in the 'classic' category, folks. Look for the chopped yucca plant to indicate the start. Pitch 1: Head up the corner for 80' to a two bolt belay on your left, 5.9. Pitch 2: Continue up the corner for 80' to another 2 bolt belay on your left, 5.8+ (linking is possible, but dont use any hand sized stuff on the first part, lest you run out). Pitch 3: Continue straight up the corner system for about 80' until you see a bush. Step left and on the far side of the bush is a rappel station. 105' total, 5.8. Descent: Rappel the route with one 70m, or 2 60's. (You might be able to do the first rap on a single 60, counting on rope stretch.)
Climbed the route on 3.16.05. The pitch 3rd is a bit sandy/loose. The rap station at the thrid pitch consisted of 3 slings around a single small scrub oak. About 30 feet below was another rap station with a bunch of really old, weatherd slings. We left a new spectra sling and a biner, but some one should bring ~10-15 feet of new webbing and replace all the old stuff. If I did the climb again, I would either skip the 3rd pitch or traverse left to the lower rap station. It might also be possible to down climb a gully from the 3rd pitch to the lower rap station.
Submitted by: bluedubbed on 2005-03-16
Route ID: 62626
I think I sweated more from the beta I read than in actually climbing the start of the 1st pitch... true you wouldn't want to fall, but I got a couple #1 and #2 nuts in the wall to protect me from falling into the bush, which wasn't THAT big, and the moves weren't too tough to get to good pro. I would say save some hand-sized cams/hexes for the second half of the second pitch though... I ran out the entire second pitch... makes things fun and interesting that way though, as I would have had a long but relatively safe fall had I slipped. We rapped after the 1st 2 pitches to avoid what sounded like it could be a sketchy/annoying descent.
One thing worth noting for now, 4/2008, is that if you don't have a high clearance vehicle (or just a beater) the closer non-4wd parking lot is currently closed, so plan on a 2hr+, but quite enjoyable, hike.
All in all this is now one of my favorite routes in the park. Lots of fun!
I led the 1st pitch and did not think it was as difficult as advertised. A reachy move gets past the crux quickly. Easy 5.9 if not 5.8 after that I thought. The 2nd pitch was at the high end of 5.8. Good two pitches. The 3rd pitch was mostly junk, but worth doing to finish it off. Nice Route
Led p. 1, follow p. 2. No sun in winter, a corner keep this route shaded. Can easily rap with one rope if only doing the two good pitches. Can also be linked together. Purple c3 protects the start well.