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Arrow Place - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
standard rack to 4" + ballnutz and 2 extra hand sized cams.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 4.40/5
  Scenery 3.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

A beautiful crack/corner system that starts on the east face of Burlap Buttress just right of a huge roof. This sits in the 'classic' category, folks. Look for the chopped yucca plant to indicate the start. Pitch 1: Head up the corner for 80' to a two bolt belay on your left, 5.9. Pitch 2: Continue up the corner for 80' to another 2 bolt belay on your left, 5.8+ (linking is possible, but dont use any hand sized stuff on the first part, lest you run out). Pitch 3: Continue straight up the corner system for about 80' until you see a bush. Step left and on the far side of the bush is a rappel station. 105' total, 5.8. Descent: Rappel the route with one 70m, or 2 60's. (You might be able to do the first rap on a single 60, counting on rope stretch.) Climbed the route on 3.16.05. The pitch 3rd is a bit sandy/loose. The rap station at the thrid pitch consisted of 3 slings around a single small scrub oak. About 30 feet below was another rap station with a bunch of really old, weatherd slings. We left a new spectra sling and a biner, but some one should bring ~10-15 feet of new webbing and replace all the old stuff. If I did the climb again, I would either skip the 3rd pitch or traverse left to the lower rap station. It might also be possible to down climb a gully from the 3rd pitch to the lower rap station.

Submitted by: bluedubbed on 2005-03-16
Views: 885
Route ID: 62626

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climballnight on 2008-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great short route

I think I sweated more from the beta I read than in actually climbing the start of the 1st pitch... true you wouldn't want to fall, but I got a couple #1 and #2 nuts in the wall to protect me from falling into the bush, which wasn't THAT big, and the moves weren't too tough to get to good pro. I would say save some hand-sized cams/hexes for the second half of the second pitch though... I ran out the entire second pitch... makes things fun and interesting that way though, as I would have had a long but relatively safe fall had I slipped. We rapped after the 1st 2 pitches to avoid what sounded like it could be a sketchy/annoying descent.

One thing worth noting for now, 4/2008, is that if you don't have a high clearance vehicle (or just a beater) the closer non-4wd parking lot is currently closed, so plan on a 2hr+, but quite enjoyable, hike.

All in all this is now one of my favorite routes in the park. Lots of fun!

Added: 2008-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Arrow Place

I led the 1st pitch and did not think it was as difficult as advertised. A reachy move gets past the crux quickly. Easy 5.9 if not 5.8 after that I thought. The 2nd pitch was at the high end of 5.8. Good two pitches. The 3rd pitch was mostly junk, but worth doing to finish it off. Nice Route

Added: 2008-04-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2007-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Arrow Place

Led p. 1, follow p. 2. No sun in winter, a corner keep this route shaded. Can easily rap with one rope if only doing the two good pitches. Can also be linked together. Purple c3 protects the start well.

Added: 2008-01-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blouderk2 on 2007-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Led p1 and p3. p2 is a splitter hand crack in a corner. Takes good pro all the way. Awesome route.

Added: 2007-04-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stashyboy on 2004-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

good route in the sun

Added: 2006-11-17

... Read all 8 ascent notes