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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
FRA: Karsten Duncan, Larry Deangelo
Gear to 6"
Adjacent to Cottonmouth Corner is a large, obvious chimney system. This route ascends Cottonmouth for the first pitch, then stays right in the chimney instead of climbing the offwidth on the left and then rejoins Cottonmouth for the last 60'. Pitch 1: Climb the first corner right of the roof to the top, then step left onto the face and climb the crack system to below a bush and belay. 5.8, 150' Pitch 2: Step left, pass the bush, then step back right into the chimney and continue upwards through the slot above to belay. 5.8, 180' Pitch 3: Continue up the system, through a difficult section, to its top, stepping left to arrive on a huge ledge. From here, climb up and left to another ledge and then climb the obvious short corner to its top. 5.10a, 180'
To the climbers left on a large ledge is a rappel station. Three double rope rappels take you to the base. Alternatively, you can continue up the finish of Cottonmouth Corner for three more pitches to the saddle before descending west into the chasm betwe
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-02-10
Route ID: 92075