Skip to Content

*Cottonmouth Corner - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
FRA: Andrew Gomoll, John Wilder
Rock (Trad)
Gear to 6"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


On the southeast face of Burlap Buttress, there is a striking crack system that starts about 100' above the ground up and right from the prominent arching roof. This route ascends that system. Start in the first obvious corner right of the roof. Pitch 1: Climb the corner, then step left onto the face, aiming for the crack system. Follow the crack up and somewhat left to a bush. Step left and climb 20' up to a small stance and belay. 5.8, 180' Pitch 2: Climb up and right, into the chimney system. Once in the chimney, climb the obvious offwidth (crux) up and then step left and follow the system upwards until just below a fork in the crack- belay at a small stance. 5.9, 180' Pitch 3: Continue straight up the right fork of the crack system through a small roof to the dihedral above (some loose rock). Belay at a huge, rock covered ledge. 5.9, 150' Pitch 4: Up and left from the ledge is a short, beautiful varnished corner- work your way up some 4th class, then ascend the corner to the top. 5.9, 60'

Descent Options:

Climb up and climbers left to a large ledge to the rappel station on the lip- three double rope rappels returns you to the base. Alternatively, 3 more long pitches of 5.8 and under alpine style climbing will take you to a prominent saddle and a complicate

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-02-10
Views: 742
Route ID: 92074

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FRA with Andrew

Six years ago, I did my first multipitch route- Frogland, and noticed this crack system. Since then, I've been waiting for an opportunity to climb it- and today was the day. It was an excellent day out with some great friends who made the day even better.

Added: 2008-02-10