To find this route, you'll have to hike past all the good stuff, but it's worth it. Do the Velvet Wall approach and then go past the base of Epinephrine, Lone Star and even past the sub-canyon of Western Spaces. As things start to look bleak, you'll come upon a slab on your left with a beautiful right-leaning splitter on it's left side. We started to the right of this thin crack.
Step up and left from a ledge above a large boulder and reach out left to a ledge. [Edit: This boulder is no longer present- it was washed away during a flood. As a result, tricky 5.9 climbing with no pro for about 15' now starts the route.] Traverse this ledge left staying underneath a bush to keep your rope running free and continue left and up through 3 easy roofs to a bolted belay. The 2nd pitch is the beautiful right-leaning splitter that goes for about 100' or so - Classic! The 3rd pitch is a 5.10- face/friction pitch and has 4 bolts for pro with some gear as well. The last pitch we graded at 5.10c . Since then we've heard that it may be a bit harder (5.11a) but the gear is really good. It follows a right-leaning crack through a small roof/bulge. A finger crack leads to a bolt protected face traverse up and right which is the crux of the route.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-08-18
Route ID: 61669
We picked up where another party left off. The first 2 pitches were done & we added the next 2. We graded the route at 5.10c and since then others have suggested a grade around 5.11-. The quality makes the approach worthwhile - enjoy!
Witnessed by: Brad Stewart, Jen Stone, J. Bentley