Pitch 1 (5.8) Scamper up some ledges, then climb a crack up to the base of a left-facing chimney (150'). Pitch 2 (5.10-) Climb the chimney to a ledge. Go up the steep cracks and face to a belay ledge (150'). Pitch 3 (5.7) Go up the crack and face above to a belay ledge (150'). Pitch 4 (4th class) Scramble up and left along ledges to the edge of a huge gully (50'). Pitch 5 (5.10-) Face climb up a varnished wall to a crack in a corner. Belay above a wide crack on a ledge with a tree (150'). Pitch 6 (3rd class) Scramble about 300 feet to the top. Descent: From summit, head west, then south down a gully. Some short rappels may be necessary. Pack light, because this descent leads you far away from the base of the car!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-20
Route ID: 27596
Interesting day. Suit up and drop your pack at the top of the approach gully. You have to circumvent more than you think around the Monument from the south to the east. I led the crux pitches. Both are chossy as you can imagine. The gear call in Handren's book is off. Take more 1"-2" and leave the 5"-6" home. The lower grade pitches have much better rock and almost make the route worthwhile. If that 2nd pitch was well traveled and cleaned, could be quite the pitch, chimney, crack, pulling two roofs. The 2nd 5.10 pitch is chossy as hell. No amount of traffic would clean it up. We took the rope off after that and scrambled approx 500'-600' to the summit. Start by that old big tree and go up from there. Your descent looks scary until you reach the summit, then it becomes obvious. No rap necessary, when you finally merge into the gully, you get cliffed out once, just follow a ramp out left and scramble down from there.