When you reach the fork in the canyon go up the slab that leads to the south fork. There is sometimes a fixed line here, and there is a short bolted climb as well. From the ledge on top of the slab go left and up a short 4th class chimney. The first pitch goes out the obvious diagonaling "ledge" to the right. You'll see a bolt a little way out, and you're aiming for the obvious crack in a left facing dihedral. Pass the first anchor you come to and belay at the top of the pillar on a nice ledge, 5.7. Pitch 2 traverse's out left past a bolt then continue's left until you cxan see another bolt above you (the traverse is about 25-30ft) follow bolts up the face to a bolted anchor, 5.8. Pitch 3 continue upward following more bolts to another bolt anchor, 5.8. Pitch 4 go left from the belay to gain a crack follow the crack unti, it ends then pass more bolts leading to the anchor, 5.9. Pitch 5 go right off the belay, clip a bolt, then head up into the obvious corner above follow this corner system until you reach belay bolts in a cave, 5.9+. Pitch 6 start out by continueing up the corner. Shortly you will clip bolts on the face to the right and then follow the bolts out onto the face. Belay at a good ledge from bolts, 5.9+. Rappell the route with 2 ropes...a single 70M might get you down. All of the anchor bolts on this climb a very good, however the protection bolts are old quarter inchers, beware.
Submitted by: flamer on 2006-04-30
Route ID: 76225
okay climb- felt contrived in places, rock was somewhat suspect throughout. Thankfully, someone has replaced roughly 3/4's of the old pro bolts with new ones- but there are still some spicy sections with old bolt. Bring rp's, as well- lots of good spots for those!