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Great Expectation's - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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SR mostly small you might want a #4 cam for the first pitch only.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


When you reach the fork in the canyon go up the slab that leads to the south fork. There is sometimes a fixed line here, and there is a short bolted climb as well. From the ledge on top of the slab go left and up a short 4th class chimney. The first pitch goes out the obvious diagonaling "ledge" to the right. You'll see a bolt a little way out, and you're aiming for the obvious crack in a left facing dihedral. Pass the first anchor you come to and belay at the top of the pillar on a nice ledge, 5.7. Pitch 2 traverse's out left past a bolt then continue's left until you cxan see another bolt above you (the traverse is about 25-30ft) follow bolts up the face to a bolted anchor, 5.8. Pitch 3 continue upward following more bolts to another bolt anchor, 5.8. Pitch 4 go left from the belay to gain a crack follow the crack unti, it ends then pass more bolts leading to the anchor, 5.9. Pitch 5 go right off the belay, clip a bolt, then head up into the obvious corner above follow this corner system until you reach belay bolts in a cave, 5.9+. Pitch 6 start out by continueing up the corner. Shortly you will clip bolts on the face to the right and then follow the bolts out onto the face. Belay at a good ledge from bolts, 5.9+. Rappell the route with 2 ropes...a single 70M might get you down. All of the anchor bolts on this climb a very good, however the protection bolts are old quarter inchers, beware.

Submitted by: flamer on 2006-04-30
Views: 618
Route ID: 76225

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars meh

okay climb- felt contrived in places, rock was somewhat suspect throughout. Thankfully, someone has replaced roughly 3/4's of the old pro bolts with new ones- but there are still some spicy sections with old bolt. Bring rp's, as well- lots of good spots for those!

Added: 2008-04-05

Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2006-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I was honored to be climbing with such an all star line up. Great people and a great climb lead to a great day!

Witnessed by: Jorge and Joanne Urioste, Jim Newberry, Geoff Connolly
Added: 2006-04-29