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Ixtalan - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
Large gear + bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

100' left of Triassic Sands. Pitch 1 (5.11c) Power up a shallow right facing corner past 4 bolts with red hangers, then angle right past 3 bolts to a hanging belay (70'). Pitch 2 (5.10-) Lieback and jam up the widening crack to another hanging belay (60'). Pitch 3 (5.11) Struggle up the famous off-width, then lie back through the roof to a belay stance with bolts. (60') Descent: Cruise up the chimney or rappel the route.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-21
Views: 974
Route ID: 27603

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: snoopy138 on 2012-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars adf

just did P1.

Added: 2012-04-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ixtalan

We actually combined the first three pitches. The second pitch is a very aesthetic bowed out splitter. The moves are fun and athletic. Eventually this initial section of the splitter leads to an almost perfectly consistent off-width crack. Either lay back or scoot up the off-width. The FAerís placed many bolts out right, but if I did the route again, I would rather rely on two C4 #6 cams. We also combined pitches 4 and 5, which consisted of tame 5.8-5.9 climbing on good rock. The fourth pitch would still require wide protection or reliability on the existing bolts, but the rock is of good quality and the grade level closer to 5.8 than 5.9. The 7th pitch offers up the best 5.9 (Handren calls it 5.9+) move of the day. The 8th pitch is rated 5.10a in Handrenís guide, but we did not feel the 5.10 anywhere on it and most of the climbing with 5th class. With Zach Lee.

Added: 2012-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just the first pitch

Just the first pitch of the climb. We were lazy and felt like clipping bolts.

Added: 2011-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: stevecurtis on 2010-03-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

Great line. The second pitch is hard to protect, but very secure. The first chimney pitch is well bolted (old bolts,) but the second is easier and runout. Above, after the rightward traverse, nice climbing. The last pitch was about 200 ft, and very runout, with a few hard spots.

Added: 2010-12-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: vegastradguy on 2007-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing

great climb. one hung the crux. the upper offwidth is only .10ish, not .11, but still attention getting. link all three pitches with a 70m for full value!

Added: 2007-05-15

... Read all 7 ascent notes