A stunningingly perfect rainbow colored corner is the highlight of this 3 pitch climb. Start about 150' right of Wholesome Fullback in a shallow left facing dihedral. Pitch 1) Head up the dihedral to the tree. 5.7, 100' Pitch 2) Head up the face right of belay to the bolt (ignore the old bolts off right), step left above the bolt and gain the corner. Follow this to belay on a large ledge off right. 5.9 R, 100' Pitch 3: Step back to the corner and climb this beautiful, steep, and sustained dihedral to its summit. 5.10d, 80' Rappel with one rope. The last pitch can easily be TR'd after doing Wholesome Fullback.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-09-11
Route ID: 33616
The last pitch is heavenly but everything else is not. I lead the middle pitch, the runout 5.9. The climbing there is not fun and there were people rapping down on top of us lots of potential for getting messed up on this. The top pitch is awesome though. I wish I would have gotten that lead.
With Mike from Squamish. I led p. 1 & 3, he took the very spooky 2nd pitch: 2 old bolts to a good bolt, then a 30 foot runout. Mike onsighted the 3rd pitch, pulled the rope, and I got it with a fall 4 feet from the anchor on a very easy move but I was soooooooo pumped.