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Schaeffers Delight - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
First Pitch is bolted and supplemented with gear. Only climbed the first pitch.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

I was asked to give a better description of its location which I will try to do. We bushwacked and missed trails but by my best guess is this route starts about 200+ yards to the left of frogland. Your going to be ducking under trees and heading slightly uphill. You will see a prominent s shaped curve and Schaffers starts to the left of this. Dont climb into the crack, this route stays on the face. The hardest moves on this whole climb might be the first three right off the deck. The rock was brittle in spots, I had no problems but Larry said a hold broke on him. There were about 5 to 7 bolts that were supplemented by some medium cams. The boltage would make this a good starter for a new trad leader. -- Most people rap off the first pitch. There are two more pitches that can be done. From first belay, climb straight up face 15 feet then head right and up a low angle dihedral. Belay below the tall corner. Third pitch (5.8) is the corner. Walk off: ascend gully then follow Frogland descent.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-06-07
Views: 990
Route ID: 59678

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: explorator on 2010-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun lead

P1 feels like a sport climb

Added: 2010-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cencalclimber on 2010-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice route.

very fun first and last pitch. Make sure you head up and over into the Main Whiskey Peak Gully to descend. Don't go down the gully immediate to the south of the Lovers Ledge.

Added: 2010-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: moonbluff on 2005-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Climbed three pitches and walked off the back side.

Added: 2005-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snakehuntergirl on 2005-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Led first pitch. Felt like an easy Red Rock type sport route on the first pitch but did supplement bolts in two places with small gear. Followed up the next two pitches.Very fun!

Added: 2005-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: faust on 2005-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: John
Added: 2005-04-09

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