Skip to Content

Triassic Sands - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 19
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (46)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Standard rack to 3", doubles/triples recommended in the hand sizes.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.36/5
  Scenery 4.48/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

Note: On 3/27/06, the belay bolts on the third and fourth pitch along with one protection bolt on the fourth pitch were replaced by the ASCA! Triassic Sands ascends a striking series of near perfect cracks up the western side of Whiskey Peak. Steep, sustained, and excellent climbing make this route a must-do for any 5.10 leader visiting the area. Approach as per Wholesome Fullback, then skirt the cliff to the left until you reach a short offwidth/corner with a striking roof/finger crack above. Pitch 1: Head up the offwidth to a nice ledge. 5.7, 40' Pitch 2: Work through the tiered overhangs on the left side of the ledge and then follow the amazing hand/offhands crack to a belay stance. 5.10c, 130' (Can be linked with the first pitch). Pitch 3: Continue up the crack past one bolt then eventually step left into another crack and follow this to a nice ledge. 5.8, 130' (Variation: Continue straight up the crack, eventually arriving at the same ledge. 5.9?) Pitch 4: Move up to the 'Fang' above, then up the spectacular dihedral above to a bolted stance. 5.10a, 110' [Note: This is the last point to rap the route with double ropes, otherwise, you must continue to the summit]. Pitch 5: Head up the left leaning ramp to a corner. Follow this corner to a nice ledge. 5.7, 100' Pitch 6: Follow another corner to your left up to a cool rib of rock. Follow the rib to a ledge system and then make your way to another ledge system about 25' above. 5.7, 130'. Descent: Work your way up to the summit ridge, then down into the gully below. From here, head left to the saddle above, then follow the abundant cairns back down to the trail you came in on. Alternatively, it is possible to make a right here and descend to Refried Brains and work your way out of the canyon that way.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-03-27
Views: 2102
Route ID: 14349

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

46 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 46 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ab_love on 2016-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First three pitches before the rain

No comment

Added: 2016-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars funtastic

See zealotnoob's comment below. I second that.

Added: 2011-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great cruiser route

Fun route with punctuated cruxes and cruiser sections between. Bring triples in #2 and #3 and stretch out placements for the cruiser sections.

Added: 2011-05-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super Awesome

This is a great climb. All the crack climbing is just fantastic. There's a short section of junk above the third pitch before the roof but other than that just great rock and moves in a beautiful location. Accidentally started up Sandblast the first time. The corner looks further left in the Handren guide because of the photo perspective but you should be climbing super easy open book, not a wide and sort of difficult lieback thing and the roof has several overhanging moves that are chalked up to perfect hands forever.

Added: 2011-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: baja_java on 2011-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

4th pitch is really, really good. Wild. Fantastic. Do it.

Added: 2011-04-04

... Read all 46 ascent notes