100' left of Triassic Sands. Pitch 1 (5.11c) Power up a shallow right facing corner past 4 bolts with red hangers, then angle right past 3 bolts to a hanging belay (70'). Pitch 2 (5.10-) Lieback and jam up the widening crack to another hanging belay (60'). Pitch 3 (5.11) Struggle up the famous off-width, then lie back through the roof to a belay stance with bolts. (60') Descent: Cruise up the chimney or rappel the route.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-21
Route ID: 27603
We actually combined the first three pitches. The second pitch is a very aesthetic bowed out splitter. The moves are fun and athletic. Eventually this initial section of the splitter leads to an almost perfectly consistent off-width crack. Either lay back or scoot up the off-width. The FAerís placed many bolts out right, but if I did the route again, I would rather rely on two C4 #6 cams. We also combined pitches 4 and 5, which consisted of tame 5.8-5.9 climbing on good rock. The fourth pitch would still require wide protection or reliability on the existing bolts, but the rock is of good quality and the grade level closer to 5.8 than 5.9. The 7th pitch offers up the best 5.9 (Handren calls it 5.9+) move of the day. The 8th pitch is rated 5.10a in Handrenís guide, but we did not feel the 5.10 anywhere on it and most of the climbing with 5th class. With Zach Lee.
Great line. The second pitch is hard to protect, but very secure. The first chimney pitch is well bolted (old bolts,) but the second is easier and runout. Above, after the rightward traverse, nice climbing. The last pitch was about 200 ft, and very runout, with a few hard spots.