One of the finest single pitches of 5.10 crack climbing at Red Rocks. One continuous crack that evovles from thin fingers to fingers to hands to offwidth and chimney. While Swain notes this as a two pitch climb, if you're not solid on 5.10, its better done as 3. Finger crack to the belay ledge, then straight up the hand crack to the traverse right to just above the roof, then offwidth/chimney to the top. Descent: Cruise up the chimney to the top, then downclimb the west side to a small ledge. The rap station faces west, across from the two chopped bolts that are visible from the route. Variation: A nice variation to this route is to traverse right just before tackling the handcrack bulge on a small ledge to the base of another finger crack. From here, head straight up to the roof and through it. No tougher than the original route, but fewer rests and less pro makes it more exciting.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-09-03
Route ID: 33614
Ok, maybe I was tired, 6 straight days of climbing, end of the day climb...but the thin polished finger crack to pull the small roof after the traverse kind of worked me. Was in no mood to fall with my bad back, but eventually committed. Took three or four up and downs to psyche up for it. Definitely as tough as the first pitch of Triassic if not more so, I agree with folks on that. A 70m rope makes it all the way to the top. Watch a flake that can snare the end of your rope, pulling it on the first rap of Our Father....that looks like a great route.
Led the first two pitches as one - fantastic!! I got pretty worked at the bulge on the second pitch but made it. This was a great finger crack workout and a bit stiff for RR standards. Be sure to finish p3 (casual chimney) so you can rap down and do the last pitch of "Our Father."
Fantastic sustained crack climbing of all sizes in a super long pitch. Rack from green C3 to blue cam, double .4 to 2, maybe triple red and yellow. This one might even be 5.10a in the Gunks. Low thin crux and a hard move getting into the right crack are well but strenuously protected.