P1: 5 draws
P2: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
P3: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
This climb is shown in Handren's Guide as "Geriatric Therapy 2a Variation" It is a fun climb, but the walk off is confusing. Go West until you are pretty much straight across from Cut Your Teeth Crag and you will be at the correct gully to go down.
The first pitch was originally put up by Mark Limage and it consisted of 3 bolts and a bolted anchor. We added a new first bolt (with Mark's permission) to make the start a little less intimidating for climbers leading at this grade. Thanks Mark.
P1: (5.7) Climb the bolted face to the second anchor. Use the first to clip a draw but continue literally 10' left and 15' higher to the second anchor for the belay. This is a really comfy ledge, be careful not to get complacent and forget you are about 60' up. (60')
The second anchor was placed by Chris Burton and Mike Burton (not related) for a single pitch route called "Greek Tragedy." This climb ascends the shallow ramp to the left (east) of the direct start for the first pitch of All that, Jazz. Looks like it takes small gear. Thanks for the information Chris!
P2: (5.8) Trend 10' right to gain the shallow, left-facing corner/crack. Place gear as you like in the crack using long slings to prevent drag. Use the ample face features and crack to stem, lie-back, and smear your way up. When the crack ends, look for a bolt up and to the left. Traverse to the bolt (if it seems too high, look for feet) and then continue left to the crux, a short, dead-vertical headwall that will "go" easily to some really fun moves! There is a protection bolt smack in the center of the headwall to protect these moves. Pull the headwall to a bolted anchor and a reasonable, slabby ledge. (110') T
P2 Option: (5.8) If you have time, rap or lower back to the first station after the your second cleans the pitch and top rope straight up the face back to the second anchor - fun climbing that adds another 110' to the day!
P:3 (5.6) Step off left and make a few moves on the solid-varnished vertical face to a single bolt (the only one on this pitch) about 8 feet off the belay. Continue straight up this face as it slabs off and becomes easier. Place gear as you like in ample horizontals and try to stay to the left in the black varnish. Trending right leads to climbable terrain but the rock quality is not as good and the placements will be fewer and more questionable! Watch rope drag as you move higher on the slab. There is a bolted anchor at the top, no rings or links. (110')
We took our time, placed plenty of gear, sat on the top in the sun for a while, stopped for photos and the route took us about 2 hours pack-to-pack.
See the general description. The thumb-like feature stands out and easily identifies the start of this route. Approach time is a casual 20 minutes.
One of the best things about the route is it has a walk off - a really easy walk off! After topping out, walk up the ramp to the left toward an obvious tree. Then cut sharply right and walk along the ridge line - there are some cairns, but they seem to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time. The trick is this, as you walk west along the ridge, always try to trend to the right (toward the "U" notch or saddle and away from the park). You will have to trend left toward the park and then back toward the saddle a couple of times but ultimately, you will end up in the saddle gully. Until you know the descent, you will find this a little confusing, however trending right will ultimately lead you right to the easy gully where you can turn sharply right again and hike back to your pack in about 5 minutes.
If you use this "always right" method, the correct descent NEVER gets dangerous or exposed. You will come to areas that are both, when this happens, backtrack, go to the left to easier terrain and start trending right again as soon as possible. You will know you are close when you go down into a gully and see a huge solitary boulder leaning across a two-level slab. If you walk past this boulder and turn around to look at it, it has two rectangular holes in it and you can see it is practically hollow inside. These two "eyes" look in the direction you want to go in. Continue down where you will see two big boulders in the gully. Go under the first and under or over the second. Total descent time is about 20 minutes.
If you have time, when you come out of the descent gully, go west toward the saddle and Cut Your Teeth crag (literally minutes away) and climb November Daze (5.7 100') and September Knights (5.9 85')!
You can rap off as there is a couple new slings on the top anchor, or you can walk off as described above.
Submitted by: geno88 on 2013-05-19
Route ID: 113809