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Side Effects - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
Bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.88/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.12/5

Description:

Extreme east end of cliff, on a free standing pinnacle. Large huecos to chain anchor on southeast face.

Submitted by: stamplis on 2006-01-11
Views: 1770
Route ID: 26817

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: plaidman42 on 2014-01-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wicked

The crux is a solid 10d campus over the roof, super fun. Ran into a guy from ASCA after sending and learned he had rebolted the route two days prior with bomber glue ins, which is awesome because I climbed it a year prior and nearly every bolt was a spinner, he says a 50-75 year life expectancy for these new guys!

Added: 2014-01-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Yeah tough for 10

My buddy onsighted an 11a the day before without a sweat but had a tough time with this one. Seems like the friable rock under the roof could have let go of a key right foot that would get you closer to the crux rail. At any rate a fun and exposed route.

Added: 2010-12-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chillyb on 2010-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

used small cam at beginning, plus extended draws until after the first roof to minimize rope drag. a tad pumpy.

Added: 2010-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Jomega on 2010-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

First off, why would you climb this route the day after it rained??! Sandstone Climbing 101; let it DRY.

Aside from that, any Beta on the overhang crux? it seems like the only way to go is dyno straight up and to the right.. I can't land it and was wondering if I'm missing a step... or a better foot.



Added: 2010-01-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bongbong on 2009-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sand bag, but a great line

Did a hold break? The initial crux is way harder than 5.10c. Put it this way, I sent one of the V4's on the other side of the hill, but can't do the one arm tight lock off for this.

That said, pulling on the bolt makes it fun 5.10 A0. And if you are above 6' 4", the crux may be much easier.

Added: 2009-04-20

... Read all 10 ascent notes