Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffitti
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Physical Graffitti - 5.6
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Gear to #3 camalot
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Description:
An excellent old school 5.6, 2 pitch climb that runs up the center of the Riding Hood Wall. Pitch 1: Start at a black, left-facing corner about 10 feet to the left of the large ceiling in the center of the wall. Climb up this crack, which goes up and slightly right. Follow this to a 2 bolt belay on a small ledge. The bolts are on your right (5.6, 130 feet) Pitch 2: Step right into the obvious crack that heads straight up. Head up this to the top. 5.6, 50m.Descent Options:
Head up and right. To avoid scrambling over some very large, loose choss, it is possible to do one short rap off the right side of the crag and then proceed on down the gully. Some easy downclimbing and walking gets you back to your packs in about 10 mi
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-01-19
Views: 458
Route ID: 32678
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37 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 37 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
first multi-pitch trad lead
this route takes all kinds of gear, and lots of it
Added: 2009-06-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Killer climb!
Really really fun. If you don't have a lot of gear its also really run out. Second pitch involves a lot of jams. Descent right is a little tricky, but quick.
Added: 2009-05-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
none
nice wide, level belay ledge at top pitch one
Added: 2009-05-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
...
P1- easy, very fun. P2- slightly off-widthy & scary then nice slab following a crack. Stitched up bottom, ran the hell out of the top but left big gear for anchor (critical). Long pitches. Descent- rappel then look for the cairn & far gully was easy.
Added: 2009-05-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Interesting route - sketchy descent
First pitch was nice and straightforward, 5.5 to 5.6ish. Pretty casual, and I used up to a C4 #3. I could have used a bigger piece at one point but creative nut placement solved the problem. Nice relaxed belay ledge, although it is a lean back/hang off a couple bolts.
From there it was a bit more exciting. I think it's a little harder than 5.6, especially for folks onsighting and/or who aren't so familiar with finger jamming technique (are most folks who would be leading 5.6?) so I'd give it a 5.7, at least for the first 40 or so feet of pitch 2. It was a bit insecure with stemming, mantling, and mostly friction holds on gritty sandstone being key while placing pro at that stage. Eventually I did get a nice whole leg jam which was a really nice rest/get your mind together moment. This was a really long route and planning how to spend my gear really felt important here, especially since I used a bit more in the tenuous section near the beginning (lots of cams plus a few other things). I climbed up to where it mostly flattens out and a small cave-like feature appears in which to build an anchor. All well and good.
We opted to descend to the climber's right (turn right and follow the ramp down below the belay cave to find the rap rings on a good ledge) and chose to rappel the first 40 feet or so. This was probably a mistake based on what I've read since. It's kind of mazelike, there is lots of loose rock, and at the end of the gully was a scary exposed chimney that puts you out over a 30-40 foot drop. We chose to downclimb but back it up with a rappel, although our rappel anchor wasn't something I was in love with. IMHO, it would be worthwhile to add a set of rap anchors to avoid the nasty exposed bits at this point, although set so that pulling the rope doesn't rain down a hail of loose rock.
For the record, the boulder-hopping/scrambling approach and exit were rather tedious, although maybe we were just a bit frazzled from the sketchy descent.
Still, it's worth the trip and I suspect it would be better after a second run.
From there it was a bit more exciting. I think it's a little harder than 5.6, especially for folks onsighting and/or who aren't so familiar with finger jamming technique (are most folks who would be leading 5.6?) so I'd give it a 5.7, at least for the first 40 or so feet of pitch 2. It was a bit insecure with stemming, mantling, and mostly friction holds on gritty sandstone being key while placing pro at that stage. Eventually I did get a nice whole leg jam which was a really nice rest/get your mind together moment. This was a really long route and planning how to spend my gear really felt important here, especially since I used a bit more in the tenuous section near the beginning (lots of cams plus a few other things). I climbed up to where it mostly flattens out and a small cave-like feature appears in which to build an anchor. All well and good.
We opted to descend to the climber's right (turn right and follow the ramp down below the belay cave to find the rap rings on a good ledge) and chose to rappel the first 40 feet or so. This was probably a mistake based on what I've read since. It's kind of mazelike, there is lots of loose rock, and at the end of the gully was a scary exposed chimney that puts you out over a 30-40 foot drop. We chose to downclimb but back it up with a rappel, although our rappel anchor wasn't something I was in love with. IMHO, it would be worthwhile to add a set of rap anchors to avoid the nasty exposed bits at this point, although set so that pulling the rope doesn't rain down a hail of loose rock.
For the record, the boulder-hopping/scrambling approach and exit were rather tedious, although maybe we were just a bit frazzled from the sketchy descent.
Still, it's worth the trip and I suspect it would be better after a second run.
Added: 2009-04-01
