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The Fox - 5.10d

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John Williamson and Bob Lodgerquist
Rock (Trad)
Standard rack to 5".
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This classic crack is located on a shady north facing crag about 200 yards right of Cannibal Crag and just short of Cow Lick Crag. Park at the same place and follow a well worn trail which skirts the cliffs to the right of Cannibal Crag. From just short of Cow Lick Crag look up to your left (south) and you will see a beautiful Indian Creek style right-facing crack. This is "The Fox" This is a very clean right facing corner a few hundred feet above the desert floor. It is a fantastic pitch on perfect desert varnish. Start directly below the dihedral and follow discontinuous holds and finger locks 20' up to the dihedral proper. From here, climb the nice jam crack, gradually widening from thin hands to an off-width section about 70' up the corner. A #4 camalot is mandatory for this section, two would be nice. Bring a #5 if you have one. After a few secure wide crack moves (some face holds are helpful here too), you will surmount a slight bulge and continue up a low angle 5" crack to the top. This route can be top roped with a 70 meter rope (barely) by building an anchor at the lip. A camalot #5 can be useful.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the climbers left.

Submitted by: geno88 on 2013-04-17
Last Modified: 2013-04-22
Views: 253
Route ID: 113649