A long, sustained route that follows a prominent right facing dihedral for 180'. Approach as per Lotta Balls, but continue around the corner to arrive at the Alcohol Wall. The first major dihedral you encounter is Gin Ricky (a bolt from its neighbor Rob Roy is visible about 15' to the right and about 20' up). Climb the dihedral to a pair of bolts. Rappel with two ropes.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-09-10
Route ID: 41199
Led for the third time today. Definitely one of my favorite single pitch 5.10 trad climbs in Red Rock. Gear wise, just a single from .75 to #3. Counting off-sets, I used triple .3 and .4's I think. Bumped the red BD micro cam once, and placed a BD yellow micro. No wires. Rap wise, I have been doing a single bolt rap on Mai Tai as the nest rap that gets you down the left side of the corner via 2 raps is rotten.
One of Red Rock's finer crack pitches. The first 40' goes quick and easy, save your small stuff! Handren references double's to 4" which does not make sense. A single to 4" with doubles or triples from C4 .3 to .5 and a couple of Metolius 0's or equivalant. I placed no wires and only had one Metolius 0 and got along fine. The crux is a few meters of Metolius 0 in the middle of the route which is too small for tips for me. Just so happens to be the most blank spot for feet as well. I did an odd arm stem off of a suspect left toe and sprung up for a right hand edge. I thought it a tough crux move for the grade. After that, a sweet ride with more or less 5.9 corner climbing. The last move was kind of cool. Fixed hanging rap, but I suggest pulling out of the corner to the rap nest above with a comfortable belay. This comfortable belay will set you up for a single 70m rap to the fixed rap on top of Straight Shot, thus no need for doubles.