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Gin Ricky - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Lots of small wires and cams. Gear to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A long, sustained route that follows a prominent right facing dihedral for 180'. Approach as per Lotta Balls, but continue around the corner to arrive at the Alcohol Wall. The first major dihedral you encounter is Gin Ricky (a bolt from its neighbor Rob Roy is visible about 15' to the right and about 20' up). Climb the dihedral to a pair of bolts. Rappel with two ropes.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-09-10
Views: 586
Route ID: 41199

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gin Ricky

One of Red Rock's finer crack pitches. The first 40' goes quick and easy, save your small stuff! Handren references double's to 4" which does not make sense. A single to 4" with doubles or triples from C4 .3 to .5 and a couple of Metolius 0's or equivalant. I placed no wires and only had one Metolius 0 and got along fine. The crux is a few meters of Metolius 0 in the middle of the route which is too small for tips for me. Just so happens to be the most blank spot for feet as well. I did an odd arm stem off of a suspect left toe and sprung up for a right hand edge. I thought it a tough crux move for the grade. After that, a sweet ride with more or less 5.9 corner climbing. The last move was kind of cool. Fixed hanging rap, but I suggest pulling out of the corner to the rap nest above with a comfortable belay. This comfortable belay will set you up for a single 70m rap to the fixed rap on top of Straight Shot, thus no need for doubles.

Added: 2014-04-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Super Long

Super good as well. wish I'd brought a lot more .3's so I wouldn't have to keep backcleaning. You can do it without the #4 but it's easier to have one. It's long so milk those rests.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: 858jason on 2010-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars None

None

Added: 2010-11-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2009-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great

great climb. new anchors should have been continued to the location of the old anchors.

Added: 2009-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: schveety on 2006-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars GR

I really liked this route, of course I wasn't leading it, but my fingers just barely squeezed in at the crux section - I love a good fingercrack

Added: 2006-11-30

... Read all 7 ascent notes