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Celtic Cracks - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Andrew Gomoll, Karsten Duncan
Rock (Trad)
R
8
gear to 5", extra .75" to 4", two ropes
1300
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

A classic route that ascends an obvious crack system on the Labyrinth Wall. Start by locating an obvious cleaved roof that faces to the left about 300' up. This is the Shamrock Roof. Start somewhat left of this feature, just right of an obvious offwidth crack in Red Rock. Climb two pitches before traversing right to gain the dihedral at the base of the roof. Follow the crack through the roof and belay. From here, climb straight up, then traverse right on the varnish to gain the wide crack above. Three or four very long (200') pitches gains the summit.

Descent Options:

Complex routefinding and rappels down the gullies behind the headwall lead east, then north, then eventually west back to the base of the route.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-10
Views: 427
Route ID: 92372

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Celtic Cracks

With Brooke from Boston. Celtic Cracks possesses one of the hidden gems at Red Rock NCA. Its roof pitch, named the Shamrock Roof, linked with the corner pitch below it is one of the finer moderate (5.10) pitches of trad climbing in the park. We simul climbed Rising Moons and then the gully rap descent to the base of the climb, a very direct approach. This route can easily be done in a day. I guided the route, leading every pitch, managing all rope work and had no problem being in Vegas for dinner on a short fall day. That said, the descent description given on MP.com and in Handrenís guidebook (the exact same word for word) is quite misleading and no longer relevant. I will update a more direct descent on Summitpost, set up for a 70m rope. Only two pitches go at 5.10 and I linked them. Although the roof has a published grade of 5.10d, most including myself would say that section of the climb is closer to 5.10-. After those two pitches, there is not a pitch harder than 5.9 and the upper half of the route follows the same wide crack to the top. With a C4 #4, 5 and 6, I never considered the route run out.

Added: 2012-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good times

good route- dont be put off by the approach, be efficient and confident and go and do it!

Added: 2008-03-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2008-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route

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Added: 2008-03-09