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Black Magic - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.47/5 Average Rating : 4.47 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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George and Joanne Urioste, John Williamson
Rock (Trad)
G
4
Trad, with some bolts tossed in.
550
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.36/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.64/5

Description:

A thin and commiting start leads to exciting and sustained climbing for three pitches. Steep and exposed, and the same grade as Lotta Balls, but much more bang for the buck. Edit: On March 23rd, 2007, the ASCA replaced 4 protection bolts on this route. Three on the first pitch and one on the third pitch. The first bolt is 1/2" stainless, the next two are 3/8" stainless, and the final bolt is 1/2" non-stainless. Thanks to Greg Barnes for the replacement effort.

Descent Options:

Descend as per Lotta Balls.

Submitted by: drkodos on 2007-03-22
Views: 1091
Route ID: 40782

25 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 25 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: explorator on 2012-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars beautiful

wonderful route

Added: 2012-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Real Good

I thought this was better than Lotta Balls. More sustained, and more consistently fun. Interesting climbing all over.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nkane on 2011-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I think this is better than Lotta Balls

More sustained at the grade and more varied climbing.

Added: 2011-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1994-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good fun

Liked this route. Our friend climbed "Lotta Balls" and really liked that as well

Added: 2010-06-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2010-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great!

excellent route, one of my favorites of our trip. the start is lots of fun and there is great exposure when going to the right of the roof! solid rock all the way. good fun

Added: 2010-03-27

... Read all 25 ascent notes