Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic
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Black Magic - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.47 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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George and Joanne Urioste, John Williamson
Rock (Trad)
G
4
Trad, with some bolts tossed in.
550
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Description:
A thin and commiting start leads to exciting and sustained climbing for three pitches. Steep and exposed, and the same grade as Lotta Balls, but much more bang for the buck. Edit: On March 23rd, 2007, the ASCA replaced 4 protection bolts on this route. Three on the first pitch and one on the third pitch. The first bolt is 1/2" stainless, the next two are 3/8" stainless, and the final bolt is 1/2" non-stainless. Thanks to Greg Barnes for the replacement effort.Descent Options:
Descend as per Lotta Balls.
Submitted by: drkodos on 2007-03-22
Views: 878
Route ID: 40782
25 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 25 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
beautiful
wonderful route
Added: 2012-07-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Real Good
I thought this was better than Lotta Balls. More sustained, and more consistently fun. Interesting climbing all over.
Added: 2011-10-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
I think this is better than Lotta Balls
More sustained at the grade and more varied climbing.
Added: 2011-03-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Good fun
Liked this route. Our friend climbed "Lotta Balls" and really liked that as well
Added: 2010-06-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
great!
excellent route, one of my favorites of our trip. the start is lots of fun and there is great exposure when going to the right of the roof! solid rock all the way. good fun
Added: 2010-03-27
