Ever wonder how Scary Larry DeAngelo earned his nickname? Climb this route and find out. Start as per Lotta Balls. Pitch 1: Instead of cutting right into the handcrack, continue up the dihedral. When the crack thins out, step right to the Lotta Balls bolt and then climb up to a belay stance at the base of the dihedral. (5.9, 110') [Variation- If you're bold, continue straight up instead of stepping right, then traverse into belay. 5.10ish, no pro] Pitch 2: Scary shit. Step left onto the face left of the dihedral, then go straight up. Pro is non-existent for the first 50'. 5.9 R/X, 110'. Pitch 3: Step left off the belay block and head up the face, eventually joining up with Lotta Balls. 5.8R, 200'. Descent: As per Lotta Balls.
Note: The first and last pitch of this route are decent variations to Lotta Balls, however the second pitch is NOT recommended- the rock is rotten and the pro is complete crap. A fall here would be very bad.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-05-07
Route ID: 66394