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Lost Marbles - 5.9

Average Rating = 1.00/5 Average Rating : 1.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
lots of smallish gear, singles to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Ever wonder how Scary Larry DeAngelo earned his nickname? Climb this route and find out. Start as per Lotta Balls. Pitch 1: Instead of cutting right into the handcrack, continue up the dihedral. When the crack thins out, step right to the Lotta Balls bolt and then climb up to a belay stance at the base of the dihedral. (5.9, 110') [Variation- If you're bold, continue straight up instead of stepping right, then traverse into belay. 5.10ish, no pro] Pitch 2: Scary shit. Step left onto the face left of the dihedral, then go straight up. Pro is non-existent for the first 50'. 5.9 R/X, 110'. Pitch 3: Step left off the belay block and head up the face, eventually joining up with Lotta Balls. 5.8R, 200'. Descent: As per Lotta Balls. Note: The first and last pitch of this route are decent variations to Lotta Balls, however the second pitch is NOT recommended- the rock is rotten and the pro is complete crap. A fall here would be very bad.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-05-07
Views: 462
Route ID: 66394

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating X
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2005-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Bad fall potential

Hopefully i will be the only person to have ever lead this....it's really runout and the rock isn't good. What was I thinking?

Added: 2007-04-30