I give this route 5 stars!! A boatload of fun!!
Start quite a ways (150 feet more or less) to the right of Algae. Find a chimney (5.3) that cuts through a roof and go up (About 80ft). Takes a variety of gear. 2nd pitch starts 25' of easy walking away from the top of the first (can be combined). P2 (about 160ft) goes up a large right facing flake/corner. Belay at an easy to see 3 bolt belay stance at the top of the crack/corner. 5.5 R. 3rd pitch is a wide crack about 90ft. Big cams help, but it takes more regular gear than it looks like it will from the belay. 5.4 There is now a bolt in addition to the belay tree at the top of P3, rap from there and then rap (2 ropes needed) to top of 1st pitch. Then scramble off to the left (Left if you are facing the route, so go toward the road). Guidebook says you can also go right (up canyon), it's possible but much tougher.
BRING 2 ROPES FOR RAPPING OFF.
Update 9/11/2010: From the top of the 3rd pitch an easy scramble left finds rap anchors. 2 easy raps with single rope (either 60 or 70 m) will bring you to a larger platform. Scramble easily down to the left (away from romper room) to the base of the cl
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-09-14
Last Modified: 2010-09-13
Route ID: 56319
Fun climb, but descent was a bear. Chose to rap back down route rather than rap gully to left. Our rope got snagged twice in different spots! We even pulled ropes way to the right like the guide book said. Had to re-lead back up twice to free the rope. Judging from the several chopped rope ends in a crack @ 120ft up P2, looks like its happened to many others. Fun route, but would recommend trying the other decent down the left gully. We didn't do that because there were no sling on trees.
Easy to scramble up the L side of chimney and belay from inside; less rope drag. I only put in 3 pieces. P1 just looks awesome and is very fun and easy. Also can put packs inside the bottom part of chimney to keep them cool and out of sight( unless other teams are following; then packs are kind of in the way a bit.) P2 is fun, and takes a lot of nuts and a few cams. P3 is easy to run out. The rappel on the east side from the pine tree has an incredible view of the roof around the right side of the route, as well as the cliffs above. The rappel is almost as fun as the route, simply amazing.