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The Red and the Black - 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

The loose rock and bad pro makes this a serious climb for the grade. Look for a pillar lying against the slab near the center of the apron. P1: Start on the left side of the pillar and follow corners to a tiny, dying bush with an ancient ratty sling. Back up this terrible anchor with equally bad nuts and cams in crap rock. Instruct your second not to fall. P2: Continue up the crumbly flake to a runout, easy slab. Belay below the roof off nice, solid, big hexes or cams behind a big flake. P3: Climb past a roof, then past a bulge, then up an easy, unprotected slab covered with loose rocks to a nice big tree. Breathe a sigh of relief. Descent: Scramble up the gully, then traverse left (exposed) to a slung tree. A double rope rap (60's) will get you to the top anchors of Real Domestic Chickens, which you can rap to the ground.

Submitted by: faust on 2005-04-04
Views: 570
Route ID: 56320

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
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Red Point Red Point ascent by: faust on 2005-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was an adventure that I would not recommend to others. A tough approach, loose rock, and crap protection. The Apron is cool, though, if you make it back there, check out one of the other routes, they might be better.

Witnessed by: John and Josh
Added: 2005-04-02