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Frigid Air buttress (5.9+) - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (31)
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Rock
10
Stoppers, gear to 6".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.07/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.57/5
  Fun Factor 4.57/5

Description:

A superb route that follows a challenging line up the main face of Frigid Air Buttress. Start at the base of a large flake on the left side of the buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the right side of the flake to three bolts. From there, climb straight up for about 10-15 feet until it eases up, then traverse left to a belay stance. (5.7) Pitch 2: Climb the cracks above and left of belay. Follow the ledge left to the corner. Climb the corner, then step left onto the face, following it or the corner to the top. Belay here. Pitch 3: Climb up and left, then up again and belay at the base of the large chimney. 5.4 Pitch 4: Climb the large chimney to its top, then move left, climb the face to a ledge and belay. 5.5 Pitch 5: Climb the handcrack to the top. Then continue up the offwidth or step right and ascend the crack/face. Belay at the base of the chimney 5.9 Pitch 6: From here, ascend the chimney, then exit left via a hand traverse. Climb up to a ledge, then climb up the next chimney, this time stem out of the chimney and ascend the face (no pro) or if you're insanely skinny, climb the inside of the chimney. From here, climb up another chimney and belay at the large tree. 5.8 Pitch 7: Climb a corner, then wander up and right on the ledge system to the base of the final headwall 5.5 Pitch 8: Climb the final headwall via the obvious (and only) crack in its face. Once atop the ledge, continue up the face for about 10 feet to the summit. Belay from here. 5.9+ Descent: Wander south/southeast from here. There's a rappel station on your left as you descend. One rope gets you down. From here wander up and left, then work your way to the large pinetree to the south. Rappel off of this tree to a ledge on your left. A static line and a bolt is the next rappel station. A 150' rappel gets you to a large, sloping ledge. To your right is another rappel station. From here 180' gets you to the top of 3rd and 4th class terrain or use an intermediate station to rappel to the floor. From here, continue down the wash until you hit the main wash and then cruise back to your packs.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2003-10-06
Views: 1722
Route ID: 16505

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31 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2013-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fine route

Got on this fine route with a complete lack of endurance training. Got pretty tired towards the end. I was doing most of the leading as my partner wasn't feeling well. At the last crux pitch, she stepped up, dug down and unleashed her grrrl power, complete with animalistic vocalizations on the beautiful finger crack. Our apologies to the hikers 900 feet below if any of them were forever scarred by those noises - it's just how she climbs.
This is a fairly big route, especially when you consider the canyoneering descent (in the dark in our case). Possible to make all the raps with a single 70 if you don't mind the hanging belay from a single bolt. It would be great if someone added a 2nd bolt there. The tree that starts the raps looks small before you get to it. It's about 60 feet from the slot canyon.

Added: 2013-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Perfect for the Warm Day

It was hot and this was a good route to do. The climbing is fun with good ledges. The crux pitch is very fun.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Outing

This is a fun moderate multi with comfortable belays. A few pitches have some really ugly rock that you have to watch out not to send down at your partner. Follows a superb line. The last pitch is a blast.

Added: 2011-03-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluffystuff on 2010-11-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best climb!

Had a great time. On the 5.9 chimney pitch though a hand hold broke, which was freaky. Glad my leg jam held. My partner also had a hold break on him, in the same chimney area. Scary, since you'd need #5 and #6s to protect that area.

Most beautiful views and cracks of all sizes. So nice.

The rappel tree above Burlesque seems to be dying though. With the 60mph gusts, it was really scary to go anywhere near, let alone anchor, to that tree. It was swaying something fierce in the gusts. Hope that people can add two rappel bolts for safety sake.



Added: 2010-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: snowkitty1224 on 2010-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

Fun climb, gorgeous view, and pretty breezy (brrr). Descent is tricky.

Added: 2010-05-11

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