Begin in the same area as Breakaway. Start off a ledge at the top of a pedastal.
Pitch 1: start up the perfect varnished face passing several bolts and belaying from bolts at the base of the obvious chimney, 5.8.
Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and folow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a
Pitch 4: Climb the short Off width making face moves at it's top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack, until you can travrse left to a seam in a varnished face(about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.
Pitch 5: Continue up the crack until you can step right to a 2 bolt belay at a stance.
Optional: Step left and continue up the face/gully system to the top of the formation. (5.8ish). A single rope rappel will return you to the top of pitch 5.
This route is VERY good. Should become a classic!
From the top of the fifth pitch rappell back the the mid way ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20 ft right to a rappell anchor. Rap down to a rap anchor on the right. You've now started rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony". Continue rapping straight dow
Submitted by: flamer on 2007-09-07
Route ID: 84957
Great day out with Michelle. I am in the camp that I thought the short 5.10c move warranted the grade. Unusual for me at Red Rocks to go that direction on grade and I am a fairly decent off width guy, but thought it was a bit wide for the knee, side pull was a bit thin (wore a bit maybe) and the move is right off the belay on top of your partner. It was a grunt move in my opinion then the rest of that pitch was cruiser. Three nice pitches here by RR standards, the fun chimney-roof pull on #2, the stem box on #3 and the cruiser varnished corner on #5. Tried Grape Nuts to the left of Amazing Grace, not too impressed, mossy and chossy. Amazing Grace's bolts and hangers not to be trusted. Some acquaintances from Canmore seemed to be enjoying Greased Lightning, on much better rock to the left of these routes if you want to add something to your day.