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Cloud Tower - 5.11d popular

Average Rating = 4.86/5 Average Rating : 4.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
Rock
trad: triples of fingers, quadruples hands and doubles fists.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.60/5
  Rock Quality 4.80/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

probably the best trad route at Red Rocks. good clean crack system bottom to top. not a bad pitch on it. the guide book seems to overrate the difficulty, seemed more like:5.8,5.8,5.9, 5.11+ fingers, 5.10 hands, 5.7tunnel thru,5.11 hands. The guide books all say the climb startes 100' on a ramp below Crimson Chrysalls but it is more like 200' (there is a corner 100' below CC that parties have started, thinking it was Cloud Tower)

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2006-04-23
Views: 680
Route ID: 41193

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15 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 15 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2007-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice route

This was a good route, but texas hold em was better (near epinephrine). I found this route a bit contrived. Anyway, first crux is hard. Bring multiple purple metolius TCU (3). I found the last crux soft.

Added: 2009-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars brrr...

This route can be really cold, as it gets no sun until the last pitch -- bring a belay jacket. Also, though the route itself goes quickly, the rappels can take a while, with the very high probability of a stuck rope somewhere along the way.

For all the criticism of the ratings, you'd think it was 5.8, but the two crux pitches are definitely hard, as in full on cranking with solid but small (first crux) or well-spaced (second crux) gear. Also, having the most strenuous moves at the very end of a 7-pitch climb doesn't exactly make them easier.

Added: 2008-04-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: goodman on 2008-03-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A must do, prolly top 5 of it's grade in the US.

.

Added: 2008-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: snowey on 2007-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars with Alex

Went back to this with Alex. This time I led the wide pitch after the crux as well as the final pitch. I fell once on the top pitch on the top out.

I ended up doing much better on the crux dihedral pitch and I only took one fall near the top of the pitch after clearing the crux. Next time I will lead it!

As far as big cams go, I brought a bit too much (an extra #4). Next time bring 3 #3 camalots, 1 3.5 (or Nate's rock empire), 1 new #4, 1 old #4




Added: 2007-12-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jreyher on 1997-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

Very hard 11d corner!

Added: 2007-11-05

... Read all 15 ascent notes