Skip to Content

Crimson Chrysalis - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.64/5 Average Rating : 4.64 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (97)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
9
many bolts, bolted anchors, standard rack to a blue camalot.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.48/5
  Rock Quality 4.57/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Crimson Chrysalis is one of those climbs listed in the NA Classics. It is a spectacular crack system that ascends the massive pillar on the north side of Rainbow Moutain. Head up the obvious ramp to the base of the pillar. Locate the massive crack disappearing into the sky. Although only 5.8+, it is still a major undertaking. Watch the rope-eating rappels.

Beta/Updates: For those interested, although the Uriostes bolted this line more than usual due to lack of wide pro for the crack, many of the current bolts have been added for convienence.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-03-30
Views: 3981
Route ID: 14350

Most Recent Photos (See all 7 photos)

97 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 97 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zootown on 2013-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good Climb!

In the shade for those hot days! Get there first so you don't get interrupted by parties rapping through your anchors! Ropes can get stuck easily on rappels, so make sure to keep those ropes outta them!

Added: 2013-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2012-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Too much hype!...

Very steep approach + Very windy day made for a not so nice experience. I had too much expectations for this route. The route did not seem that great, I am not sure I would want to climb it again. (Swapped leads with Jacob)

Added: 2012-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2010-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route, cool to cold in the afternoon.

Part two of a link-up day. We first climbed unimpeachable groping, then climbed this route in the afternoon. It was busy with people rappelling off so we just dodged ropes and hauled ass. The bottom 4 or so pitches can be climbed without gear if you are willing to run between bolts. The upper pitches will eat what every gear you take, so I would recommend just a set of nuts and few mid size cams. BUT if 5.8 is your max definitly take a solid rack.

Added: 2012-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: ridgeback on 2011-10-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A classic!!

Amazing climb, a little cool that day. Every belay was hanging, but each one bolted. One other party on route so not too crowded other than our final belay where we had 5 people sharing the belay/rappel station!

Added: 2011-11-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nesta208 on 2010-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

Great climb!

Added: 2011-06-14

... Read all 97 ascent notes