Just left of Spare Rib is a striking varnished corner that runs up the length of the buttress. This is your route. Pitch 1: Head up the varnished corner until it opens into a chimney. 5.9, 100' Pitch 2: Continue up for a full rope length, 5.8 Pitch 3: Head to the summit on some easier climbing, 5.7 Descent: Rappel Spare Rib. (Variation: Continue upward via the Laceration Spur (see details on Climbingredrocks.com))
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-10-15
Route ID: 70891
These are a couple of decent routes to be sure (along with Spare Rib). You can easily do this route in two pitches, versus three. The first pitch is the prize. Very nice. The 2nd pitch is an easy chimney, but completely run out. No reason to not continue to the top with a 60m rope.