The first ascent party only placed one bolt on the entire route.
A beautiful climb that ascends a crack system to the right of the prominent chimney on Ginger Buttress. Approach as for Crimson Chrysalis, but head left one you hit the bottom of the approach ramp. You will also need 2 ropes for the rappel. Pitch 1: Climb the left hand of two hand cracks to a tree, step right and climb the crack up, step left into a slot, follow up to a double bolt belay (100', 5.7) Pitch 2: Step right (exposed!) and climb up a crack system and through a chimney, then back into a crack to another bolted belay (130', 5.8) Pitch 3: Climb the right-facing crack up and through to the hanging belay above (bolted). (100', 5.7) Pitch 4: Step right and follow the crack above past 3 bolts (one button head, two 3/8" retrobolts), and continue up the crack to a final bolted belay (160', 5.9) Pitch 5: Follow the crack system on your right up to a tree, set up natural belay. (150', 5.8) Pitch 6: Scramble up through the trees to a ledge, step left and set belay. (100', 4th class) Pitch 7: Ascend the left-facing crack (lieback) past a roof, traverse right and ascend the corner to the notch.(150', 5.6R) Descent: Rappel off the other side of the notch using two ropes (you might be able to use just one, but barely). Look for cordlette and webbing down and to your right from the summit. Scramble down to the top of the black waterstreak, two bolts are right on the lip. Do a two-rope rappel down and right, looking for the two bolt rappel station (a 3rd bolt is there for backup). From the top of the second rappel, two 60m ropes will hit the ground. Walk north for 100 yards, then head left to your packs. Descent time is approximately one hour.
Submitted by: crotch on 2005-04-07
Route ID: 40721
This is a high quality route with good climbing and easy route finding. I do think there are too many bolts where they're not needed. There's no need to rap the route so why have the rap anchors. There's perfectly good cracks next to many of the protection bolts as well. Other than that the climbing is fantastic.