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Guppies on Ritalin - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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L. DeAngelo, K. Duncan, J. Wilder
Rock (Trad)
G
5
Gear to 5" (doubles in thin hands to fists)
850
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

On the right side of the Aquarium wall is a left facing dihedral that forms the left side of a protruding buttress. On the right side of this buttress is another ledge system with a beautiful, but short, dihedral that sits about 40' right of the buttress and starts about 20' above the ledge. Start immediately below this dihedral. Pitch 1: Climb the face to a good ledge at the base of the dihedral. Climb the dihedral and its striking finger crack, follow the crack when the dihedral ends through a bulge, stopping about 10' below where the crack pinches down from hands at a small hanging stance. 150', 5.7 Pitch 2: Continue up the crack until the moss forces you left onto the face and strike out on the easy face up and left to gain another crack. Follow this to a small stance about 20' below the headwall above. 180', 5.7 Pitch 3: Climb the headwall and follow the crack above until an obvious belay ledge appears on the left. 165', 5.8 Pitch 4: Step back into the crack and follow it through two bulges until you reach a posh ledge. 160', 5.8 Pitch 5: Continue up the obvious chimney above to the summit- step right when you can to gain a nice ledge to belay on. 165', 5.7+

Descent Options:

Walk due south along an obvious ledge system for about 50', then head west, following faint ledge systems, working your way south into the bowl at the base of the Brownstone Wall. Once here, follow cairns back to the trailhead. Dont leave anything at the

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-09-24
Views: 505
Route ID: 88596

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2007-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good route

once the moss is cleaned up, this will be an outstanding route. the first and last pitches are classic, and the third and fourth are good too. the second is a little chossy, but once the moss is gone, i suspect that it will be pretty good too.

Added: 2007-09-16