Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Urioste & Urioste 1982
Gear & bolts (many bolts recently replaced), single rack to 4 inches plus 12-15 slings & draws.
Up Juniper Canyon and up the fixed-line sluice toward Rainbow Wall (or scramble left of the sluice if you're not sure what condition the rope is in). Trudge up to the rubble above the Bowl. Once in the rubble and brush, move up and right toward the Paiute Eye (the huge arched recess in the Wall). Head toward the left side of the Eye to avoid a scramble/climb up through a final nondescript cliff band, follow the ledge along the base of the Wall to the right. You pass the "Brown Recluse" rappels, "Brown Recluse," and then pass Brock and McMillen's "killer bivy" (it is!). The route starts a little below (left of) the last prominent pine tree on the ledge.
(The descriptions given in Joanne Urioste's Supplement, in Brock & McMillen, and in Handren are all excellent. The route is never hard to follow.)
Every pair of pitches can (and should) be linked, so I'll renumber them here. Bring 12-15 slings and a single rack to 4".
P1.1 (5.7) - Step up and move left across a ledgy face to the middle of 3 cracks/seams, the one that obviously takes pro the best. Climb up the crack and pull the bulge, where the first of 3 bolts is encountered. Follow the bolts up and left. You could build an anchor here, but it is better to continue ...
P1.2 - Move left and up an easy wide crack. After 30-40 feet find a semi-hanging belay from bolts on the right.
P2.1 - Continue up the wide crack, using features around the crack, passing 1 bolt. Pass another semi-hanging bolted stance on the right (easy to miss), and link with ...
P2.2 (5.8-5.9) - Good hands low, good chimney higher. Burly but not too technical. At the top you have your choice of heading into the squeeze chimney, or staying outside. Be kind to your partner with the pack. This pitch ends at a bolted stance at the lip of a sloping ledge.
P3.1 & P3.2 (5.8-5.9) - the Classic Face pitches - The kind of face climbing - flakes and edges - we have all come to associate with Urioste routes. Up the face past three bolts, left to a crack, and past a couple more old bolts past a bolted hanging belay, and continue past more good bolts to a bolted stance on top of a small pillar. We couldn't decide if this was the technical crux or not, but it is definitely the most sustained pitch. Be careful not to kick fragile flakes near the route onto your partner.
P4.1 & P4.2 (5.8-5.9) - Straight up from the belay, up a wide, short crack past another old bolt past a bolted stance atop another small pillar. Continue along a line of old bolts to the right (one delicate move), turning up into the wide crack before you go around the corner. Your view of the bolts above maybe obscured by a bush in the wide crack. End at a good stance on the corner.
P5.1 & 5.2 (5.7-5.8) - This pitch is a blast! Step right to the dihedral, and use a combination of stemming, jamming, and face climbing. Either stop at the stout pine tree, or set a directional and head back along the 3rd class ledges to the base of the chimney. This would be a potential bivy spot for 2-3 if you are taking a leisurely approach to this route.
P6.1 & 6.2 (5.7-5.8) - The first half is the chimney pitch, clean and easy once you pass the shrub, with some protection opportunities around your feet and a bolt up where its just wide. The second half involves ducking down and out of the chimney (the crux here) and up a clean slab with more bolts. Stop in the notch and build your own anchor. It would be possible to bivy a small army here, although the rocks are sloping.
P7.1 & 7.2 (5.4-5.5??) - I got as far as the pro bolt partway up this pitch (currently the old bolt is still there, so it appears to be a belay anchor, but this will eventually be fixed). I guess you keep heading straight up to find a final 1-bolt anchor in the bulges above, but I couldn't spot it ... next time. And then pull onto the final slabs and finish up.
There are four ways to get down from this route:
(1) Urioste: top out and head back to Oak Creek for the long walk out. Probably the nicest tour if you bivy along the way and like gazing into the backcountry.
(2) Handren: top out and rappel down the "Or
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-06-14
Route ID: 40938
Good route with great partner, Michael D. from NY. Leisurely way up Rainbow really. You can combine the first three pitches with a 70m and a bit of easy simul climbing to a hidden anchor on the right wall of the chimney/off width. The 5th and 6th pitches were the only spicy ones really. Face climbing on moss covered weak edges. Well bolted where need be though. The 9th pitch was fantastic and the old bolts just need to be removed, no need for any bolts on this corner, tons of pro. The most enjoyable pitch in my opinion was the 10th-11th combo. Surprised more is not made of this pitch in the beta. Classic chimney, sweep out onto face. Loving that squeeze move. We did this whole route in six pitches. I ran the rope from the top of the 11th out left to the rap anchor on Brown Recluse. 10 raps with a 70m Very last (short) one is hidden, climbers left. Damn hard to find these raps in the dark if that would be your situation. Most anchors same color as the rock. We took eleven hrs car to car. 1.5 for the approach.