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Original Route (V 5.12c) - 5.12c

Average Rating = 4.90/5 Average Rating : 4.90 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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For a free climb ascent: single set of cams to 2", 8 quick draws, set of nuts, 1 60M rope.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Fantastic clean line with only one not so great pitch. The 11c variation to the left is much better than the 12b to the right. The bottom six pitches are all mega classic. Solid 5.11 climbers should have little problem here. The first 5.8 pitch is boring and chossy, the second actually quite good. Stepping out onto the face, with 800' of air and no pro is exhillarating. Then its an exciting traverse left frm the bivy ledge then up right to the upper dihedrals. The grades to me here seemed 12c, 12b, 11d (going left), and 5.9 to the summit. For additional beta check the posted message above.

Submitted by: david_smithrock on 2006-08-27
Views: 1708
Route ID: 17185

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18 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

It appears bolts come and go on this thing. For me, there was a section on the second pitch with poor pro that I was unwilling to try and onsight. Furthermore, reading the notes on the internet could lead one to believe the route is soft. No way! In any case, the route is great. We went up to the upper dihedrals in 6 hurs, and then bailed in failing light. Already plans to go back and complete the climb. By the way, the loose pillar is still there, still bit scarey. Right off the belay too. Don't pro the thing.

Added: 2012-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: vegastradguy on 2009-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing route

absolutely stellar- not to be missed. regarding the pillar- its best to free this section, i placed a cam off left of it at the base, then went as high as possible before placing one cam at the top and climbed two 5.8ish moves to exit that section to solid gear. despite the thrumming noises, the pillar is more solid at the top than you'd expect. avoid the lower section and its quite tame. hung on the .11d pitches, pulled through on the two .12 pitches (my partner onsighted both red dihedral pitches!), and onsighted the rest! 6hrs on route, fairly casual despite the grade.

Added: 2009-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars bailed on an aid attempt

early 5th pitch, the loose pillar is EXTREMELY loose, able to move it with a cupped palm. we didn't feel safe loading cams in the cracks there so bailed. not sure if the pillar loosened over the past winter or not...

approach humping a 100+ lb el cap haul bag pushed 9 hours, getting all that aid gear and water for the slower climbing than free took an exhausting toll as well. we were extremely disappointed to turn back after that effort. if that pillar goes and there's a seam behind it, would love to make another effort at this route but on safer terms. that pillar was tipping right over the belay station 10 feet below...

Added: 2008-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: superbum on 2007-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars TEEM FREE ONSIGHT!

Yep, yoo herd rite...we surpassed our expectations and made it up the wall in fine style, not falling and sleeping only on the firm ground below. 8hrs base to summit, 2 hours of rapping...YAHOO!

Added: 2007-11-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: glahhg on 2007-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars :)

Ropegunned up by Josh. Had to hang in a few spots.

Added: 2007-05-03

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