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Gift of the Wind Gods - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

This rotue ascends the massive tower that lies to the right of the Aeolian Wall (which, in turn, sits right of Resolution Arete). This route starts in large gully far to the right of the Resolution Gully. This is accessed as per Resolution Arete but continue moving west along the brushy gulley to the far side of Aeolian Tower. At a huge lone pine below the R side of the Aeolian Tower climb up an easy crack til you can go right on bolts from the first pitch.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2005-05-18
Views: 356
Route ID: 57569

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2013-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gift of the Wind Gods

With Jackie from Australia. I personally have no problem with the route in its current condition. We have way more gear (i.e. small offset cams and nuts) at our disposal than the FAers did. However, some bolts are newer than others and most stations have at least one rusted bolt/hanger.

I led both 5.10d pitches. The first one really only needs one pro bolt. Tons of good small gear for the competent leader after that. The current bolt, at a bulge, is good enough, but not modern. Could be replaced. On the 5.10d traverse, there is some good gear when it heads up. I was comfortable on the traverse itself with the bolts in place.

This route could clean up nicely, much better rock than Woman of Mountain Dreams which I did last week. The scramble to the summit plateau is a bit of a slog and currently not well described anywhere, including Handrens guide. It is not near as long or involved as Woman or Revolution. My Aussie partner thought the rock sucked, but I was pretty stoked with it on the sharp end, all in all.

Added: 2013-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2007-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Fun route.

Climbed with Jim Anglin

Added: 2007-04-10