A huge, 'sporty' route that ascends the main wall just right of Resoultion Arete. On your way to Resolution Arete, head up the gully as for the Aeolian Wall, but look on your left for the first pitch's bolts. two ropes to rappel, or continue up Resolution to the top.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-08-07
Route ID: 57572
Out of the many multi pitch routes I have done in Red Rocks, this was among the best. Just enough spice to keep the riff raff off, yet fairly mellow climbing overall. The approach was a real bitch, but we made it first try in about 1 hour and 45 min. The comments about keeping going if you are unsure which gully to take were helpful. Look for cairns. Also, you can DEFINITELY avoid the white rot gully decent on the way out! Just descend the main gully until you are forced to do a cool free hanging double rope rappel. At the bottom of this rap, trend climbers right and pick up the decent trail again near the red cliff band of the approach. This route is ten times better than Crimson Chrysalis with none of the crowds!
I fall into the climbers who liked the route. I also found the second pitch stiff--10 c or d. Some of the crack pitches were run out and challenging--good mental cruxes. I only did the first 7. I'd recommend this.
A note on the approach--the white trash gully. I got into the wrong one and nearly sold the farm with a boulder rolling over me. The right one is well cairned, and the last climbable gully before the main aeolian gully. If you have doubts, you are probably in the wrong one.
Climbed Inti to Resolution arete on 3/27/2010. This made it about 13 pitches plus another ~120 meters of simu-climbing at the end. It was a pretty cold start and then in the sun for most of the climb. We still used down jackets for belays as it was cold and windy. Inti itself is fantastic. We combined the first two pitches and this was by far the crux. I thought those 10c moves were pretty hard. The 10c pitch up high was easy(er), and probably more like 5.9/10a. We also combined the last four pitches of Inti into 2, to make one long 5.9 pitch and the 5.9 combined with the 10c pitch. I'm glad we continued on Resolution just to finish it off, but the climbing was not impressive and I'd probably not do it again. The walk off Wilson was long and hellish, so my beta is probably useless. We followed cairns for a while but then lost them and found a 3rd/4th class scramble into First Creek Canyon. Then it was endless boulder hopping and scrambling down the wash in the dark. We were not super-fast, the approach took ~2 hours 15 minutes and it is pretty steep 4th class if you've never seen it. We took a rest day earlier and stashed ropes and water at the base and figured out the approach, and I think this helped a lot. The climb itself went from 7am to 5:30pm. The walk off started ok until it was really dark (~7:30pm) and then it took forever to find an acceptable way down, and ended up taking us more like 5 hours to get back to the car.
this is a great line with mostly sport climbing and the odd trad pitch. the grade at 10c is very soft IMO (I would give it 10a). The second pitch was the hardest, everything else was significantly easier. There are many bolts. Finishing off via the upper pitches of resolution arete adds a little bite to the climb with rope drag and less than ideal rock quality. But great way to end up on the summit.