Looming over Red Rocks is the huge and imposing east face of Mount Wilson- the highest peak in Red Rocks. Moving directly up the arete that shoots down from the summit is this fine climb. 18 pitches of just about everything you can think of, including some aid for us mere mortals, this one is one of those climbs that if you climb here long enough, you just have to do! Descent: There are three options: 1) Head straight back to the limestone and follow the contact line south into First Creek. Endless boulderhopping eventually drops you onto the main trail that leads to the highway. 1) Head to the limestone and head north. Somewhere at the end of the slabs is a rappel that drops you into Oak Creek Canyon. 3) If you have a 60m rope, head over to the top of the Horseshoe Wall and rappel Dogma in 15 single rope rappels and then find your way out to the Old Oak Creek Campground trail.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-05-16
Route ID: 51562
Stay further left on that runout 5.8 5th pitch before traversing up and right. Took 70m rope and combined quite a few pitches. Thought the 5.10 pitch after the 5.11 (or aid) pitch was scary. Was pumped out on the 5.9 hand traverse (this is a long day!). Been out Oak Creek via Lady Wilson's Cleavage so this time took First Creek. Suppose Oak Creek is better, but not by much really. The route tops out at the summit. That is pretty cool for RR.
I hanged on the crux pitch and red pointed on next try. I felt it like 11b or c. No under cling. Finger jamming was not so bad. Whole route was excellent. I like its less bolts policy. I rappelled Dogma with one 70m rope. It took about 5 hours. Finding the anchor at Sherwood forest was tricky but after and before that was not so difficult.
The length is the main appeal of this route--there is some good climbing, bu most of it is not remarkable. The roof pitch is NOT 5.12a, as indicated on this site. I thought the Vogel rating of 11- was about right.