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Dogma - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

The only grade V route in the area, Dogma ascends the wall right up the middle, passing through Sherwood on its way to the summit. Descent: This route can be rapped with a single 60m rope or you can descend as per Resolution Arete.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-05-16
Views: 695
Route ID: 57573

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Some really nice climbing

I've wandered twice to find the start. Contrary to the guide book, the start is not 100 ft uphill from "The Willies". It is more like 300ft. Go past the bolt/link and keep going until you find the obvious feature--the flake in the big chimney. Above looks vegitated with poor, and broken climbing. It is. The first belay is two bolts and a fair bit to the left, partly hidden by trees. The second pitch heads up fourth class ramps through trees to some easily seen bolts. Unfortunately, the first clip requires insecure 5.9 (R), and the territory between bolts is more like 5.10 PG/R. go 200 feet to the second tree with slings. Then head 200 ft right. The third pitch is memorable and excellent. Be prepared to use a number of neglected techniques. Pitches 4 and 5 are OK easy low angle to "sherwood forest"-a steep slab. The first headwall pitch is the crux. Really sustained, but no real hard moves. Afterwards, this headwall becomes less steep, less hard, but a little runout in sections. Consistently good climbing, with, for me, need of an occasional cam. There are a few places where one can fall on his partner, but otherwise, the falls are clean.
A single set of cams to red camalot was good. Take small ones for pitch 3.

All in all, a really good route. We rapped with a 70 meter

Added: 2013-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: hasbeen on 2010-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fine Day of Rockaineering

Trip with with detailed info (should you be into this sort of thing) and lot of photos here:

http://steve-edwards.blogspot.com/2010/05/rockaineering-on-dogma-mount-wilson.html



Added: 2010-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ihuang on 2006-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fell once at the crux pitch and another time because of a broken hold. This long route makes a long day. Can be really cold as it is in the shade pretty much the entire day.

Added: 2006-02-25