Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Joe Herbst, 1977
double rack up to 7 inches, with triples of 3 and above
The Schwa is a striking splitter crack that divides a beautiful piece of white sandstone. The route is difficult to spot from the main trail, but once you begin ascending the hill, the route is obvious. The route has two first pitches- The original start went up the gully to the right of the route, then traversed left along a ledge to the base of the crack (110', 5.7). The direct start is .10d and goes up the obvious line to the base of the crack. The crack itself is .10d and approximately 90' long. The anchors are about 20' to the right of the top, but its better to belay at the top of the crack and then traverse over. The anchors are two fixed nuts with new cord as of Sept '07. One double rope rappel gets you to the ground.
Rappel once with two ropes from an anchor a little right of the top of the route.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-08-24
Route ID: 89027
the approach for this climb is horrible!!! but the climb itself is wellworth it, WELL worth it. i think this might be my favorite crack in red rocks. we ran out of time because of the approach, so we did the 5.7 first pitch, gotta go back again and try the direct start!
My favorite climb I've done in Red Rocks. I led p1 (direct start) and followed p2 (the offwidth). I started up thinking my pitch was 5.7, just grabbed a little bit of gear expecting to cruise it. I must have spent 5 minuets under that roof thinking "ain't no way this is 5.7". Finally I just sacked up and gunned it for the next ledge. That tips crack had me totally gripped, with no cams left to fit the crack (or even a stance to place from) and my last piece was back in the corner under the roof. That's one ankle-breaker of a whipper I'm glad I didn't have to take.
Far and away my most proud ascent of 2007. And I'll be spraying about it for years to come :)