This excellent route ascends the steep varnished buttress left of Black Orpheous and
right of There and Back Again,so technically it is not on the Black Arch Wall,but just to the right.
Work your way up 2nd class slabs right of Black Arch Wall until a belay ledge is reached below a 5.5 pitch with a single bolt. 1)ascend this pitch to a ledge 5.5 2)climb a 2 bolt pitch to a belay stance under a roof 5.10b 3) climb up a slot thru the roof(11b)then up past several bolts to a ledge 5.11b 4) climb past 5 bolts (11b) to a stance with a bolt (and another bolt with a missing hanger,don't belay here keep going) at the start of an ultra thin (#0 TCU)crack,from the one good fingerlock place 2 #0's and launch into the crux (mostly face climbing unless your fingers are very tiny) then climb past 3 more bolts to the anchors!Rappel the route with 2 ropes.
Submitted by: gambler on 2004-06-21
Route ID: 54726