Average Rating : 4.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
George and Joanne Urioste
13+ quickdraws, lightweight aiders or long slings, set of nuts, set of cams .6" - 2"
This actually a (5.10 A0) 9 pitch climb with lots of bolts, but this is no sport climb. P1 - (.8) dihedral and crack to a belay ledge with bolts, 200' P2 - (.10) move right past two bolts, (use long slings on these to avoid rope drag), follow a seam left past 8 more bolts to a belay stance atop a block, 150' P3 - (.10) straight up white face past many bolts, (lost count), to a bolted anchor, 90' P4 - (.9) follow nine bolts to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay, 110' P5 - (.10) move right to ledge and then up past several bolts to a bolted belay, 60' P6 - (.8 A0) follow a thin crack to a bulge then aid out the bulge, 8 bolts, to another bolted belay, 60' P7 (.10) follow a corner/groove to the next anchors, 100' P8 (.9) go up and left in a corner in a corner past 4 old bolts, (rest of the route has new bolts), to a ledge, belay here (130') or run it out up an easy corner to the top (50' more). You can hike off the top or rap the route from the top of P7. If you are wanting to rap and loose track where you are at on the climb, do not climb past the old bolts, there are no bolt anchors above at this time. If I do this route again, I'll rap it.
Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off if you top out.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-14
Route ID: 31463
With DOWWW, his description is right on. We climbed the route in 4:50 and were in no way rushing. Rapping with a single 70 meter cord was without difficulty. I led the 5.10c pitch high up. Though filled with trepidation from accounts on climbers on previous sites, this also proved more enjoyable than terrifying. Aid ladder is slightly harder than Monkey Face at Smith Rock but it can be done singing bolt to bolt grabbing draws.
We combined the first two pitches, 5-6 and 7-8 for a total of 6 vs 9 to the final rap station. I led that first 5.10c and combined the aid pitch with that 5.10b pitch. Thought both were full value leads. We enjoyed that last pitch and did not fear that first bolt nor thought the pitch was hard to protect. I thought the existing bolts were well placed actually. Just take some double length slings for the aid and you will be set. The transition to free climbing to reach the anchor is awkward. The climbing after that is a bit pumpy as well if you are combining these pitches as I did. The best approach for this wall folks is to hike up the Painted Bowl walk off and then scramble up easy rock to the shoulder below Rainbow Buttress. Much quicker and direct than any other option. If you really think this approach is bad, don't visit the Canadian Rockies for rock routes.
Vegastradguy is sandbagging the pitch after the bolt ladder (or, I suppose, he could just be a vastly superior climber to the rest of us). Consensus is that pitch is the crux, and it was very hard compared to the lower "10c" "crux" pitch. If it's 10c, I'd call it "10c my ass." The climb did turn serious at/after the bolt ladder -- looser rock, uncomfortable belay ledges, and more delicate pro and climbing. All in all, it was a huge, good day out. Plan out your raps carefully; we rapped on two ropes and dealt with stuck rope issues on the way down.
rock quality degrades significantly after the 4th pitch- probably better to do the first 4, then fire Levitation for the ultimate day out! Also, my impression of the pitches were- .9, .10a, .10b, .9, .10a/b, .8/C0, .10b, .10c
Awesome route, did the "newer" approach, no problem. Nice solid climbing all through it. Last pitch, was very tired but good fingers meant lead without the pro, run it out to the finish Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us. Car to car 11.5 hours