Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall Area : Eagle Dance (A0)
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Eagle Dance (A0) - 5.10c A0
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George and Joanne Urioste
Rock (Trad)
Aid
PG13
9
13+ quickdraws, lightweight aiders or long slings, set of nuts, set of cams .6" - 2"
1000
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Description:
This actually a (5.10 A0) 9 pitch climb with lots of bolts, but this is no sport climb. P1 - (.8) dihedral and crack to a belay ledge with bolts, 200' P2 - (.10) move right past two bolts, (use long slings on these to avoid rope drag), follow a seam left past 8 more bolts to a belay stance atop a block, 150' P3 - (.10) straight up white face past many bolts, (lost count), to a bolted anchor, 90' P4 - (.9) follow nine bolts to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay, 110' P5 - (.10) move right to ledge and then up past several bolts to a bolted belay, 60' P6 - (.8 A0) follow a thin crack to a bulge then aid out the bulge, 8 bolts, to another bolted belay, 60' P7 (.10) follow a corner/groove to the next anchors, 100' P8 (.9) go up and left in a corner in a corner past 4 old bolts, (rest of the route has new bolts), to a ledge, belay here (130') or run it out up an easy corner to the top (50' more). You can hike off the top or rap the route from the top of P7. If you are wanting to rap and loose track where you are at on the climb, do not climb past the old bolts, there are no bolt anchors above at this time. If I do this route again, I'll rap it.Descent Options:
Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off if you top out.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-14
Views: 421
Route ID: 31463
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16 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 16 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
First four pitches fantastic, rest is serious
Vegastradguy is sandbagging the pitch after the bolt ladder (or, I suppose, he could just be a vastly superior climber to the rest of us). Consensus is that pitch is the crux, and it was very hard compared to the lower "10c" "crux" pitch. If it's 10c, I'd call it "10c my ass." The climb did turn serious at/after the bolt ladder -- looser rock, uncomfortable belay ledges, and more delicate pro and climbing. All in all, it was a huge, good day out. Plan out your raps carefully; we rapped on two ropes and dealt with stuck rope issues on the way down.
Added: 2009-03-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
good, not great.
rock quality degrades significantly after the 4th pitch- probably better to do the first 4, then fire Levitation for the ultimate day out! Also, my impression of the pitches were- .9, .10a, .10b, .9, .10a/b, .8/C0, .10b, .10c
Added: 2009-03-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
What a blast
Awesome route, did the "newer" approach, no problem. Nice solid climbing all through it. Last pitch, was very tired but good fingers meant lead without the pro, run it out to the finish
Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us.
Car to car 11.5 hours
Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us.
Car to car 11.5 hours
Added: 2007-11-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
good prep route for lev 29
has anybody freed the aid ladder I have heard that it is .12 it would only be a boulder problem- I should have tried
Added: 2007-08-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Fun
We took bivvy gear up the evening before -- there's a nice spot to crash near the base.
Added: 2007-05-30
