9-10 pitch route, 2 hour approach and possibly the best route of it's grade in the park. Crux pitch is super sustained and requires many draws. First free ascent by Joanne Urioste, Lynn Hill and John Long in 1981.
Submitted by: angry on 2006-01-08
Route ID: 11914
Awesome route in an awesome location. First route we got on that felt true to the grade and the approach definitely put a litle "hitch in my giddyup" for the day. Got the crux pitch roof and then sketched on the face crux just above it. +By the time I got to the 7th pitch I was toast!
This was our second climb of the day. We first climbed Black Orpheus and rappelled through painted bowl and hit this route for some nice warm sunny climbing. After the first pitch I don't think there is a need for anything but quickdraws. The first pitch ended up a bit run out because we didn't bother with gear. But it is an awesome route. The rock quality starts to get kinda poor towards the top but worth doing.
Onsighted the first 3 pitches, then the heavens opened and snow came a flying. Rapped off then headed for the slabs descent. This was a little dicey, as there were streams of water running down the slab as were were descending. No epic though. Made it back to the car by 4 pm. Approach note: When you see the first two large pine trees- go around the first pine tree and head right, up the slabs. Keep your eye out for the well placed carins that take you all the was to Eagle Wall.
Crazy long approach, it took us almost three hours to get there but we took the third class approach instead of the fourth one by accident. Than we took the fourth class ramp back down in the night and also got lost. All in all, the approach and decent lasted longer than the actual climb did.
The start of pitch two was a bit sketchy. There isnít much for really solid gear and the moves to the first bolt, about 30 feet up, are a bit tricky. Other than that the climb is relatively safe with the massive number of bolts it has.