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Mountain Beast - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Standard rack to 2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This route is on the far right(east) side of the eagle wall. Begin about 30' down(west) from the "saddle" at the top of the eagle wall ramp. The first pitch is obvious and begins up a crack system. The pitch ends in a heart shaped alcove(visible from the base) at a bolted belay, 5.9. Pitch 2 starts out the right side of the alcove and follows bolts up then back to the left. No gear is needed on this pitch. The pitch ends at another bolted anchor, 5.11-. Pitch 3 goes up and right from the belay, past a couple of bolts, aiming for the obvious corner system. The pitch ends at another bolted belay, on a ledge, 5.8+. Pitch 4 starts up the corner, then after about 10 feet head left onto the obvious varnished face. There are several climbable lines through this section, however the actual route goes around the arete(which is climbers left) to a bolt then up from there. Yet another bolted belay ends this pitch, 5.8/9 depending which way you go. Pitch 5 follow the bolts up the face. You'll need to supplement the bolts with gear. Towards the top of the pitch follow 2 bolts to the right, which will lead you to a bolted belay on a ledge. 5.10. Pitch 6 climb the face above past 2 bolts, then gain a thin crack. There are very cool holds in the crack on this pitch, along with good stoppers. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on a ledge with a small tree, 5.9+. Pitch 7 starts by heading to the right off the belay, gaining a left facing corner. Head up the corner aways until you can climb the face on the right. The pitch ends on a huge ledge, with a big tree- no bolts on this one! Tree anchor, 5.7. Pitch 8 climb the white face behind the Tree following a line of bolts. The rock quality is quite poor on this pitch. The route ends at another bolted belay. As of 4-11-2006 all bolts are bomber. Descend as for any of the Eagle wall routes.

Submitted by: flamer on 2006-04-11
Views: 458
Route ID: 75875

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mountain Beast

With Zach. We enjoyed the route quite a bit. The crux pitch is a tough traverse, but well protected. The 5th and 6th pitches were really nice. A lot of bolts on this route. We rapped Levitation with a 70m for our descent. Either down climb or rappel from the top (someone installed rap rings at the very top) to skiers right to find the top of Levitation. Walk over about 30'-40' and then down.

Added: 2010-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clusterfuck on 2007-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a really fun day link with j vegas and sunflower

good rr crimping in a spactacular position ringtail is also good

Added: 2007-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2006-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-04-11