Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall Area : Rainbow Buttress
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Rainbow Buttress - 5.8
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Rock
Bring all the regular stuff plus an extra #3.5 and #4 cam.
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Description:
Approach: Walk up Oak creek about an hour past Solar Slab staying to the right when the canyon forks. Continue up the north fork until you come to a spot with two large, healthy pine trees, one on each side of the creekbed. This marks the start of the approach ramp. Head up the slabs/ramp past Eagle Dance and Levitation until you reach the end of the ledge system. The climb is directly above you. Go up the right side of the Black Tower, then wander up to the top. Descent: From the top of the last pitch, head for a red pinnacle and skirt it on the right. Now continue along the ridge until you run out of sandstone. At a red saddle, head down the obvious, waterpolished slabs which will take you back to your packs.
Submitted by: crotch on 2004-08-06
Views: 311
Route ID: 15713
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
excellent
great day out- took the dihedral variation, felt more like 5.9 to me. rps or the smallest cams would be a nice addition, as would an extra #3 or #4 camalot if you're not a solid 5.10 leader. the final pitch (the bolted variation) felt VERY hard for 5.7- and the rock quality made it spooky. also- look on mountain project for the chicken lips descent beta for a 40 min descent back to the painted bowl!
Added: 2009-11-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Rainbow Buttress
Hard to beat the day we had, with Liba from NM. Perfect weather, company and terrain. Oak Creek is prob the most enjoyable full length canyon (your descent) of all of Red Rocks. We did this in 10+ hrs and never climbed together before and took plenty of breaks, this is more of a II-III day vs IV. The rock was quite stellar and pitches 2, 3 and 6 were very good for the grade by Red Rocks standards. I took a slide nut for that thin section on 6 and it fit the bill. Single rack worked great all day. Quite a few trees to sling as well.
Added: 2009-10-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
good fun in winter
nice grade IV buttress
Added: 2007-08-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
I led about half the route, including the 5.8 pitches. Fun climb! Windy and cold in the morning, but it warmed up. Walked off, long day!
Added: 2005-10-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ascent Note
FABULOUS! Last pitch (5.5x) seemed WAY harder. Took the bolts up, is that the original route? Maybe it was the cold wind and lack of sleep?
Witnessed by: Jim Hammerlie
Added: 2004-12-22
Added: 2004-12-22
