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Arch Enemy - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
R
3
From tiny nuts to big bros you can place pretty much anything.
450
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route follows the right crack under the prominent Arch. Pitch 1, 5.8: This pitch is quite long, I'd say 180ft. It starts as a slab, then gets steeper and eventually you get to the actual crack about half way up. The problem is that your only pro for the first half are nuts and tricams between the flake like features formed by the weathered black layer of sandstone. I was able to place something every 12 to 15 ft, but I was pretty sure that the last piece would have popped if I had fallen while placing the next piece. Some parts of the black layer also fell apart as I grabed them or stepped on them. I was really happy when I placed 2 cams in the crack. But also in the crack part placing gear is not trivial, I was missing numbers 4 and 5. And when you finally see the anchor above you, the crack widens on the last 15 feet and you can't place anything (except if you have big bros). Pitch 2: This pitch is about 100ft, has sparse placements, but comes with 2 bolts. You can place a piece or two, then the crack between the slab and the giant flake widens, you get to a bolt, then the crack becomes a double crack, you can get another piece in, then get to a second bolt. Now the fun part begins: The crack becomes so wide that you can climb into it and through a tunnel between the flake and the slab. It is kind of a squeeze chimney. At the beginning of the chimney section you can get a last big piece in all the way to the right, but through the chimney part, which is about 20 ft I'd say, you can't place anything - except big bros maybe. As you get out behind the flake, you reach a ledge, where you can built anchors and rest comfortably. Pitch 3, 5.9: Finger crack - didn't do this pitch so I can't tell. Anyone? I suggest an R rating because of the lower half of pitch 1, where I couldn't place any good gear.

Descent Options:

You can rap from pitch 1 with 2 ropes, from pitch 2 and 3 you can rap Solar Slab.

Submitted by: steple on 2009-04-20
Views: 690
Route ID: 99071

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet route

The runout on the first pitch can be tamed by looking for good gear right of the waterstreak. The crux is getting into the chimney and once your in there, there is no way to fall out. You can get a good medium size cam before entering the chimney so don't sweat it. The fingercrack is 20 feet right after exiting the cave and is more of a variation to Solar Slab than anything else. Albeit an awesome 100 foot long splitter crack variation.

Added: 2010-11-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nkane on 2010-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Led p1, followed p2&3

i didn't find p1 too too runout, thought the squeeze chimney on p2 was moderately terrifying. p3 is an excellent long finger crack that goes between two anchors on the solar slab route itself.

Added: 2010-03-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: steple on 2009-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars scary!!!

I don't think I did anything that scary in my life. I just added the route, so my ascent note is the description above.

Led pitch 1, followed pitch 2.

Added: 2009-04-20