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Beulahs Book - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (26)
Rock
Gear to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.56/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

A great route and if you're quick, a great start for Solar Slab. Start in a corner about 100' left of Johnny Vegas and cruise up the chimney passing a single bolt. Belay at a nice stance below the obvious crux above. (5.6, 150') Pitch 2: Head up through the squeeze chimney and then up the corner above. At the roof, step left to a two bolt belay. (5.9, 180') Pitch 3: From here, head up the slab, generally heading right and up, arriving at the large pile of boulders for belay. (5.6, 180') Note: A 5.8 bolted variation exists for the 2nd pitch- Head out left onto the face and arete for about 50' - 60' before heading back right to the corner. It may be wise to belay here before doing the corner if you do this route. Variation Start Info: The alternate start is ~10 feet left of the main start. From the ground, climb on to big block, and move into a right facing corner with a dark varnished face. Corner is thin fingers and protects well. Continue up corner to ~5 feet below roof (protects with green camalot- watch out for rope drag) and traverse right onto face for ~10 feet back to route and up to belay in the chimney. Corner is maybe 5.9 and traverse is 10a.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-26
Views: 393
Route ID: 11345

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26 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 0000-00-00 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars -

thought we were on johnny vegas.. oops. tried to do the chimney but fear and lack of a #4 camalot led me to do the arete variation instead.

Added: 2009-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: sherrilewis on 2008-03-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great variation

We began the 2nd pitch with the arete variation, which offered some balancy challenge and superb exposure, before working back into the corner for a sublime finish to the pitch. It was the best of both worlds. Added the two-pitch "Going Nuts" route at the top for bonus round of climbing.

Added: 2008-03-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2008-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Whew a chimney to remember

Hung out trying to establish myself in the chimney; wish I would have chimneyed from the bottom instead of stemming my way up. The arching lieback crack is real good.

Added: 2008-03-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-03-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Beulahs Book

Really enjoyed the day with Joe. We used Beulahs to access Sunflower...I had yet to do Beulahs, so took the 2nd pitch (arete version)....fun times...the lieback looks much worse from the angle you get on the arete than it really is....thought both the arete and lieback were closer to 5.8 than 5.9. Fun pitch.

Added: 2008-03-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rudolphluciani on 2007-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A great read

Pitch one and two are great. Three is a cruisey, though fairly runout, slab. "pitch four" is not a pitch at all, but a gentile stroll along Solar Slab Ledge to the rap gulley.

Added: 2007-12-23

... Read all 26 ascent notes