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Beulahs Book - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.31/5 Average Rating : 4.31 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (32)
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Gear to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 4.58/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

A great route and if you're quick, a great start for Solar Slab. Start in a corner about 100' left of Johnny Vegas and cruise up the chimney passing a single bolt. Belay at a nice stance below the obvious crux above. (5.6, 150') Pitch 2: Head up through the squeeze chimney and then up the corner above. At the roof, step left to a two bolt belay. (5.9, 180') Pitch 3: From here, head up the slab, generally heading right and up, arriving at the large pile of boulders for belay. (5.6, 180') Note: A 5.8 bolted variation exists for the 2nd pitch- Head out left onto the face and arete for about 50' - 60' before heading back right to the corner. It may be wise to belay here before doing the corner if you do this route. Variation Start Info: The alternate start is ~10 feet left of the main start. From the ground, climb on to big block, and move into a right facing corner with a dark varnished face. Corner is thin fingers and protects well. Continue up corner to ~5 feet below roof (protects with green camalot- watch out for rope drag) and traverse right onto face for ~10 feet back to route and up to belay in the chimney. Corner is maybe 5.9 and traverse is 10a.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-26
Views: 1146
Route ID: 11345

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32 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2013-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Amazing Corner!

The corner pitch is awesome. Did the bolted variation on the second pitch which was pretty good. Linked up with Solar slab above.

Added: 2013-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climballnight on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb

2nd pitch chimney section is well protected with the bolt, a #4 and a #5 cam. I brought a 6" too and made use of it at the exit of the chimney. The slightly awkward moves just above/after exiting the chimney were for us the crux of the climb. The dihedral was super fun with great protection and easy stances every 5 ft for placing pro. Though I had triples of some cams, doubles in the 3/4"-1.5" range were plenty. Great bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch. (we belayed from a trad anchor in the shade of the chimney at the top of the first pitch). If running 3 and 4 together, avoid the Pitch 3 anchor bolts altogether to reduce rope drag.

Added: 2013-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2011-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Interesting route

The 1st pitch goes left of the big chimney - look for a single bolt 30 feet up. 5.8 variation to the left of the flare is a blast, nice exposure and fun moves. There is a rap station on the 2nd pitch now after 100 ft, can easily climb to the next station at 160 ft, cliping 1 bolt along the way. The rest of the climb is OK, but not as exciting.

Added: 2011-10-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2010-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars led p2.

makes a good linkup with sunflower.

Added: 2010-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2010-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Stellar second pitch

If the second pitch were on the ground with rap anchors installed, people would be gang-banging the shit out of it. As for gear, a #4 is a must-have; a #5 wouldn't go unused. First and last pitch are really ho-hum, but there are beautiful views to be had at the top and it is blessedly sunny to boot.

Added: 2010-01-21

... Read all 32 ascent notes