A great route and if you're quick, a great start for Solar Slab. Start in a corner about 100' left of Johnny Vegas and cruise up the chimney passing a single bolt. Belay at a nice stance below the obvious crux above. (5.6, 150') Pitch 2: Head up through the squeeze chimney and then up the corner above. At the roof, step left to a two bolt belay. (5.9, 180') Pitch 3: From here, head up the slab, generally heading right and up, arriving at the large pile of boulders for belay. (5.6, 180') Note: A 5.8 bolted variation exists for the 2nd pitch- Head out left onto the face and arete for about 50' - 60' before heading back right to the corner. It may be wise to belay here before doing the corner if you do this route. Variation Start Info: The alternate start is ~10 feet left of the main start. From the ground, climb on to big block, and move into a right facing corner with a dark varnished face. Corner is thin fingers and protects well. Continue up corner to ~5 feet below roof (protects with green camalot- watch out for rope drag) and traverse right onto face for ~10 feet back to route and up to belay in the chimney. Corner is maybe 5.9 and traverse is 10a.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-26
Route ID: 11345
2nd pitch chimney section is well protected with the bolt, a #4 and a #5 cam. I brought a 6" too and made use of it at the exit of the chimney. The slightly awkward moves just above/after exiting the chimney were for us the crux of the climb. The dihedral was super fun with great protection and easy stances every 5 ft for placing pro. Though I had triples of some cams, doubles in the 3/4"-1.5" range were plenty. Great bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch. (we belayed from a trad anchor in the shade of the chimney at the top of the first pitch). If running 3 and 4 together, avoid the Pitch 3 anchor bolts altogether to reduce rope drag.
The 1st pitch goes left of the big chimney - look for a single bolt 30 feet up. 5.8 variation to the left of the flare is a blast, nice exposure and fun moves. There is a rap station on the 2nd pitch now after 100 ft, can easily climb to the next station at 160 ft, cliping 1 bolt along the way. The rest of the climb is OK, but not as exciting.
If the second pitch were on the ground with rap anchors installed, people would be gang-banging the shit out of it. As for gear, a #4 is a must-have; a #5 wouldn't go unused. First and last pitch are really ho-hum, but there are beautiful views to be had at the top and it is blessedly sunny to boot.