Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder, 'Ohio' John
gear to 4"
This spicy route is actually located between Black Orpheus and Sunspot Ridge on a small wall just to Black Orpheus' right. Approach as per Black Orpheus, but work your way right along ledge systems when you reach the base. This route is the left hand crack of four obvious lines on this wall. Look for a pine tree below a large boulder formation to mark your start. Pitch 1: Start about 30' right of the pine tree on a ledge just above it. Climb up easy terrain right of the crack until the plates vanish. Step left in the crack and follow it until it ends. 50', 5.6+ Pitch 2: 3rd class up and left to gain the base of the main crack system. Ascend this to a good ledge above a chimney. 120', 5.7+ Pitch 3: Continue up the crack until it is possible to belay on a sloping ledge about 20' below a roof. 5.9, 100' Pitch 4: Ascend the crack/corner for about 15' (no pro) and then step left before the roof. Follow a 3rd class ramp up and left to a huge bowl with an old rap station and belay. 5.8+, 140' Descent: The easiest way off is to 3rd class up and generally right, eventually gaining the shoulder between Solar Slab and Black Orpheus. At this point, there are two options. 1) Continue up Sunspot Ridge for two and a half pitches to gain the Solar Slab rappels or 2) Downclimb through a chimney and make one 100' rappel to reach the top of Pitch 2 on Solar Slab and rappel. Alternatively, it appears that it is entirely possible to gain Black Orpheus and either rappel or continue up that route.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-12-12
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Route ID: 72449