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Johnny Vegas - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.37/5 Average Rating : 4.37 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (87)
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Gear to a #3 camalot. This route is stopper friendly!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.18/5
  Rock Quality 4.18/5
  Scenery 4.51/5
  Fun Factor 4.37/5

Description:

This is probably the most popular route on this wall, and can also be an approach route for Solar Slab. Good, but really easy, well protected climbing throughout the climb. This climb starts about 20' left of the Solar Slab Gully. Pitch 1: Scramble up past a tree to a nice ledge with a crack heading straight up the middle of the east facing wall. Follow this crack until it ends, then traverse left to another straight in crack. Follow this to a bolted belay. 120', 5.6 Pitch 2: Head straight up the corner, then step right and follow the face/crack to a big stance, 120', 5.7 Pitch 3: Step right to an arete and climb up and step left after a small roof and follow easy climbing to belay. 100', 5.7 Pitch 4: Head straight up to belay and unrope. 50', 5.2 Variations: There's a BUNCH of Variations to this route. Variation 1) Pitch 1: When the crack ends, you can continue up the face, although its a bit runout, but really easy and then traverse left to belay. Probably 5.6. Variation 2: Pitch 3: Step left and follow the corner up and right (crux) to a bolt, then head up and then left to belay. This variation is the best climbing on the route, well worth it. 5.9 Varitation 3: Pitch 3: After stepping right for the regular route, head straight up along the wall, passing the step left, following the crack to the last belay. 5.7 Descent: You can rappel this route with two ropes, although Solar Slab Gully can be rappelled with one, and I've heard that this route eats ropes quite frequently! Edit: The rappel slings on the top of the 3rd pitch were replaced on 12.21.04

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-12-21
Views: 2831
Route ID: 16456

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87 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2013-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great climb

Did the 5.9 variation this time, it's well protected.

Added: 2013-04-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theresister on 2013-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route.

We had it to ourselves on a cool overcast Thursday. Never saw any other climbers but heard a few on the big wall across the canyon. Rappelled the route without incident, other than knotted ropes.

Added: 2013-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: ecdunn on 2012-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars So much fun.

Really enjoyed that second pitch! Awesome route overall! Did not enjoy rapelling down Solar Slab Gully...

Added: 2012-05-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: LamontagnedeGatineau on 2012-01-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Soft for the grade, but super nice!

I failed to see any 5.7 on the route, but hugely enjoyed the exposed 3rd pitch and protection on chickenheads! Now THAT was fun!

Added: 2012-01-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jnrose5 on 2011-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hotness

super warm day...

Added: 2011-10-24

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