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Johnny Vegas - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.30/5 Average Rating : 4.30 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (71)
Rock
Gear to a #3 camalot. This route is stopper friendly!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 4.48/5
  Fun Factor 4.30/5

Description:

This is probably the most popular route on this wall, and can also be an approach route for Solar Slab. Good, but really easy, well protected climbing throughout the climb. This climb starts about 20' left of the Solar Slab Gully. Pitch 1: Scramble up past a tree to a nice ledge with a crack heading straight up the middle of the east facing wall. Follow this crack until it ends, then traverse left to another straight in crack. Follow this to a bolted belay. 120', 5.6 Pitch 2: Head straight up the corner, then step right and follow the face/crack to a big stance, 120', 5.7 Pitch 3: Step right to an arete and climb up and step left after a small roof and follow easy climbing to belay. 100', 5.7 Pitch 4: Head straight up to belay and unrope. 50', 5.2 Variations: There's a BUNCH of Variations to this route. Variation 1) Pitch 1: When the crack ends, you can continue up the face, although its a bit runout, but really easy and then traverse left to belay. Probably 5.6. Variation 2: Pitch 3: Step left and follow the corner up and right (crux) to a bolt, then head up and then left to belay. This variation is the best climbing on the route, well worth it. 5.9 Varitation 3: Pitch 3: After stepping right for the regular route, head straight up along the wall, passing the step left, following the crack to the last belay. 5.7 Descent: You can rappel this route with two ropes, although Solar Slab Gully can be rappelled with one, and I've heard that this route eats ropes quite frequently! Edit: The rappel slings on the top of the 3rd pitch were replaced on 12.21.04

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-12-21
Views: 839
Route ID: 16456

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71 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2009-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Easy for the grade.


Good route. Lots of gear placements. Nice approach to Solar Slab.

Added: 2009-11-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 858jason on 2009-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars None

led p1, p3

Added: 2009-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: wcm on 2007-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars J.V.

Followed this multipitch all day, great intro to m.p., Beautiful views, awesome rock. Only downside of the day was S&R had to fly in to take a leader on Solar Slab off. 3 parties backed up on the wall as we top'd out on J.V., chopper came in shortly after.

Added: 2009-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ratherbe on 2009-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Johnny Vegas

enjoyable

Added: 2009-05-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: TheSurface on 2009-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Johnny Vegas

None

Added: 2009-04-26

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