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Sandstone Overcast (5.8 C1) - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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J. Wilder, L. Deangelo/FFA:
Rock (Trad)
G
small gear to #3 camalot, 3ea Blue alien or similar.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

want to practice some aid climbing? This neat little route starts just left of Johnny Vegas at a right facing corner. Pitch 1: Ascend the corner, passing a bolt- continue up the face, passing the bolted belay at Johnny Vegas and continue up the corner to a large ledge. 5.8, 190'. Pitch 2: Ascend the corner system in the center of the ledge straight up for about 75', then step right and work across and up the face, aiming for where the roof above narrows. Cross this roof and belay about 15' above at a stance. 5.8, 170'. Pitch 3: Get out your aiders. Head up the thin crack to the massive overhang above. Work through the overhang, eventually rolling over left and belaying immdiately after. 5.8 A1, 50'. (Note: We suspect this could go free, but arent sure. If you're strong, have a go, could be fun!) Pitch 4: Cruise to the summit. 5.3, 150'. Rappel Johnny Vegas or SS Gully. EDIT: Ballnutz are not needed. 3 Blue aliens are perfect. Easy to do without Aiders. END EDIT

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-07
Last Modified: 2011-07-28
Views: 665
Route ID: 63691

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Again...

another decent route that is as good if not better than Johnny Vegas on the lower slab, but gets climbed about 1/100th of the time which is fine by me. With Pat B.

Added: 2009-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: needrock on 2008-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars free!

well, i don't know if this is the first asccent because i have heard through the grape vine jerry handren might have done it like a week before me. but the route is really cool. very thin, but not as thin as you think. you need like three metolius #1's and one metolus 0 size cams for the roof. it's not too bad, some easier lay-back/ stemming moves, then a bigger move with no feet to a large bucket in the crack. go give it a go, i think it goes around 5.12-

Added: 2009-02-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: flamer on 2005-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This route will go free in the future.

I'm guessing around 5.12+ to 5.13-. Someone with very thin fingers will have a huge advantage. But it would be doable by a very strong climber with fatter fingers.

All you need to protect the roof is 3 Blue Aliens(purple TCU's).
It's a cool roof!!

Witnessed by: Josh Higgins
Added: 2005-05-01