want to practice some aid climbing? This neat little route starts just left of Johnny Vegas at a right facing corner. Pitch 1: Ascend the corner, passing a bolt- continue up the face, passing the bolted belay at Johnny Vegas and continue up the corner to a large ledge. 5.8, 190'. Pitch 2: Ascend the corner system in the center of the ledge straight up for about 75', then step right and work across and up the face, aiming for where the roof above narrows. Cross this roof and belay about 15' above at a stance. 5.8, 170'. Pitch 3: Get out your aiders. Head up the thin crack to the massive overhang above. Work through the overhang, eventually rolling over left and belaying immdiately after. 5.8 A1, 50'. (Note: We suspect this could go free, but arent sure. If you're strong, have a go, could be fun!) Pitch 4: Cruise to the summit. 5.3, 150'. Rappel Johnny Vegas or SS Gully.
EDIT: Ballnutz are not needed. 3 Blue aliens are perfect. Easy to do without Aiders. END EDIT
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-07
Last Modified: 2011-07-28
Route ID: 63691
well, i don't know if this is the first asccent because i have heard through the grape vine jerry handren might have done it like a week before me. but the route is really cool. very thin, but not as thin as you think. you need like three metolius #1's and one metolus 0 size cams for the roof. it's not too bad, some easier lay-back/ stemming moves, then a bigger move with no feet to a large bucket in the crack. go give it a go, i think it goes around 5.12-