A fun route that ascends the prominent varnished buttress left of Solar Slab. This route can be found by looking up and spotting the 1 large roof followed by three smaller ones above. All are pronounced and easily spotted from the ground. Just below the lowest roof is an obvious dihedral/crack system. Pitch 1: Ascend the broken rock to the corner and follow the corner to a semi-decent belay stance about 5' below the roof. 100', 5.7 Pitch 2: Traverse right along a foot rail for about 15' to the base of a dihedral in the roof with a bolt in the middle. Ascend through the roof (crux) and then up easier terrain above to a bolted belay near a ledge. 100', 5.10c Pitch 3: Continue up the corner through the rest of the roofs to another bolted belay. 80', 5.7 Pitch 4: Another omnious roof lies above with a bolt on it. Traverse into the roof from the right and follow the crack system above to a bolted belay. 80', 5.9 Pitch 5: Step right and continue up the crack system, passing an intermediate station on your left to the top of the buttress. 160', 5.6 Variation: Instead of climbing the first two pitches, you can start about 50' right of Solar Flare in a left facing corner. Pitch 1:Climb up this corner as high as possible, then traverse left (crux) to easy terrain. From here, head up and left through a small roof, eventually arriving at a two bolt belay. 165', 5.10a Descent: Rappel the route with a single line to the top of the 2nd pitch. From here, a rap station down and climbers right may allow for a single rope rap to the ground. Otherwise, one double rope rappel reaches the base of the route from this point.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-12-14
Route ID: 72074
The roof was a lot of fun and no more difficult than the grade suggests, but the pro is a tad dicey. The bolt is so so. A couple of sideway nut placements might make one feel a little better. A fun move for sure. The 2nd roof is more in the less desirable rock higher up, otherwise more of a 5.8 feel I thought. This is some of the better rock in Red Rocks in my opinion. With Brad from Calgary.